Sunday 30 December 2012

Japanese, Queues, Food Fashion and Limited Editions

I have noticed something very odd about Japanese people. They love to queue. If there is a line, other Japanese people will seem to join, not really knowing what is at the front, but just assuming “Well these people are queuing so there must be something good at the front!” I would look at a long queue and rate it against my desire for what is at the end, but Japanese people seem to think the longer the queue, the better the thing at the end must be. I noticed this on a previous trip to Tokyo back in 2009. I saw a queue snaking it's way back and forth with people lining up for Krispy Kreme doughnuts. Apparently Krispy Kreme had just come to Japan and it was the in thing to be eating, even though the signs were indicating the wait at roughly an hour.

Which brings me to my second point; 'Food Fashion'. Japanese people seem to consider food to be fashionable and trendy in the same way as style, clothes, cars or other things of a more non-edible nature. I haven't worked out if it's 'cool' to be seen eating it, eating it with your friends, telling your friends you've eaten it or buying it to give to someone; or even all the above, but food can definitely be cool here.

Which brings me to 'Limited Editions', this can be food or something in general, but Japanese people love anything of a 'Limited Edition'. I know from living with Maki for so many years she is a sucker a 'Limited Edition'. If there is a TV advert for a new type of chocolate bar with a limited flavour, she has to have it, even though she's not a fan of chocolate. Japan has some clearly defined seasons and this bring with it seasonal items too. I once tried an Autumn Limited Edition Asahi Beer, which in my view tasted like normal beer; but this is the kind of thing Japanese people like, “It's autumn so I must drink autumnal beer.” Granted it makes sense for some food, unlike us westerners who want everything all-year-round, but when you stick a cherry blossom on something and call it a 'Limited Spring Edition' then Japanese people will line up to by it, literally.

The picture below shows people queuing out of a store just to buy a small, round, cake.  

My Christmas Day

We awoke in our 19th floor executive hotel room in Sapporo, Hokkaido; with a breath-taking view of the city, coated in white. A lazy start, listening to Christmas tunes on my iPad to get in the spirit while we open presents and drink tea.


Once showered and dressed we went down to the best breakfast buffet I have ever seen and ate in front of a large window with a view of a snow covered garden; gorging ourselves on bread, waffles, fruits, eggs, bacon, french toast and yoghurt.


But no time to rest as we head to the station, not before Maki takes a complementary sauna while I pack up our wonderful gifts. We meet Maki's friend at the station to send us off and board our train to Niseko. On the train we eat an assorted sashimi-don bento while watching the Narnia like scenery whizz by and taking time out to start watching 'The Great Escape' on my iPad (It is Christmas after-all and never seen it all the way through).


We dropped our stuff at our hotel, grabbed our rented skies and headed to the slopes for our lesson.  The ski lesson was good with a slow start as dusk set in and the flood lights came on, lighting the slopes with a beautiful glow; soon after which a bit of a blizzard set in, giving us a little challenge for our first lessons. But we did well and learnt a lot.


We returned to our new hotel and a buffet lunch including roast beef, more sashimi, tempura and loads more food than we could realistically eat. Once our stomachs had been sufficient filled with all the great food, we retreated to warm our aching muscles in the hotels outdoor, mixed onsen; a hot bath surrounded by a winter wonderland, cover in a thick blanket of snow.


Splendid.

Saturday 22 December 2012

Merry Christmas from Your Man In Japan

Random English of the Month – Homemade Pie

This small snack says it is a “Homemade Pie”. However, it doesn't look or taste anything like a pie, more like a biscuit. And I think I can safely assume it is not homemade either.


Me Man, Me Bake!

At my schools there is a Japanese etiquette that if you go somewhere you should buy small sweets, or omiyage, for your colleagues to give them on your return. This is sometimes somewhat of an issue for me as I'm going somewhere most weekends and I also work at three schools, with in total about 85-90 teachers. A small trip would cost me a small fortune in sweets alone. so I don't always buy something.

However, for Christmas, I wanted to do something nice for my teachers and rather than buying a sweet, I thought why not make them something! Small cakes would be ideal, but I don't have an oven. I do, however, know how to make Welsh Cakes which are cooked in a pan, thanks to an old Welsh flatmate of mine. So I set about a mass batch production of mini Welsh Cakes (Modifying the recipe to have chocolate instead of raisons). They came out well and over two evenings I churned out over 150 mini cakes, making enough for my evening class as well and extra for hungry teachers. There reception was great, however, something of a patterned response emerged. Every time offered someone a cake, I was met with the question “Did your wife make these?” When I told them I made them, there was surprised, followed with something along the lines of “Really. Well done! They taste good”. However, after a while it became a little patronising. Just because I'm a man, why shouldn't I be able to cook?!?


It appears the divide between men and women in Japan is still stronger than I thought and that men of my age don't cook, clean or any kind of housework for that matter. Obviously this comes from a time when women didn't go to work, but women are working now and yet they still have the responsibility of cooking, cleaning and childcare. This coming from school teachers that only last week cancelled my afternoon lesson to educate their students on equal rights, this just smacks with a sense of irony. Japanese men, cook for your women folk!

Kyuushoku Dairies

Kyuushoku (給食) means school lunch and I have decided to try and remember to take photos of my lunch to share them with you all as school lunches in Japan are the best I've ever seen. There might also be hidden within the secret to why I've lost so much weight since I got to Japan, dropping from 82kg to 70kg (10kg of which was in the first 6 weeks). The Japanese diet seems to be working well and its not for the sake of the quality I am eating, as I am devouring anything edible that comes within arms reach. And it's all so tasty. If I leave Japan, the food will be the number one thing I miss.

Chocolate Crisps!

Thats right, crisps drizzled with chocolate. I'm getting the impression Japanese people don't know what to do with chocolate.

The Lows of Being an ALT


Maybe I shouldn't moan, but being a ALT (Assistant Language Teacher) leaves you with a lot of free time. Currently I have nothing to do for 3 whole day before I can go away on holiday. Normally this would be good thing, but when I still have to go into work and sit there, looking like I'm busy and not have the freedom to simply surf the net or read a book, it becomes a real chore. The days with not much to do go painfully slow and I would prefer to be busy. It's something about being an ALT I don't quite get. And it's not for the sake of not doing any work. I've planned my lessons ahead until mid-late January and have done a host of extra things, like created an English corner where every month I create a new poster about something linguistically or culturally English. Sometimes, being an ALT just doesn't feel that important of a job and it doesn't feel like a real job. Even at our training, we are told that being an ALT is not a career! It's something people do for a few years.

It's not an easy job though. Balancing students moods, abilities and desires with the teachers requirements and demands while communicating in one of the worlds most difficult languages and tightrope walking Japanese etiquette is no small feet. Everyday is a new challenge, you must work on your feet if something goes wrong and the adults can be just as bad as the kids.

The perks are plain to see. Good money, holidays by the bucket load, on the good days the kids are amazing to work with and the chance to work in one of the most interesting cultures I have ever come across. It's just a shame there isn't anything culturally interesting about having to sit at my desk for three days to show I'm here and part of the 'team' (I sigh as I look at the clock again for the 10th time this hour).  

A Surprise Lunch

I was summoned outside to the garden at my JHS, not sure why I was going or what I was doing. But it was a pleasant surprise as there was a Nabe (Japanese Hot Pot) party underway. A pot was bubbling away on an open fire with all kinds of wonderful fresh ingredients inside; shrimp, shiitake, potatoes, chinese cabbage and fish to name but some.

OCD and Magnets

I think a lot of my kids have OCD. I have various magnetics I use to stick my flash cards to the blackboard. When the children help me to take my stuff down and collect the magnets, a surprising amount of them feel the need to organise the magnetics in to groups, all the blue magnets together, all the white magnets together and all the black magnetics together. Is that strange?

Winter in Japan – Annoyances Part 4

As the winter creeps in and the snow and frost settles over the landscape, Japans beauty yet again takes on another amazing seasonal form.  Winter.  Japan is a great place to live, however, Japanese people don't seem to have heard of a few western convenience:  Central heating, insulation and double glazing.  It's madness.  How can such a civilized country, especially one so prone to extreme seasonal temperatures, not have heard of these basic of amenities.  I open our wardrobe and it is like opening the door to a very large freezer as the cold air smacks you in the face.

They have heaters, but it doesn't seem to really replace the need for some kind of general central heating system.  You see, Japanese people only heat one room at a time.  The heaters they do use are either heating air-conditioners, fan heaters or oil burning heaters.  The oil burning heaters just seem rather crazy as well, requiring stacks of oil cans for refilling, not good when you're on the 2nd floor (3rd floor if you're from Japan, they don't have a ground floor).  Plus they have a flame and give of fumes!  Of course you can also use some of the various heating accessaries such as a kotatsu, a low table with something similar to a bar heater lashed to the underside and a shirt like quilt around the edges to contain the heat.  For me, these just seem to leave my legs burning and my upper torso frozen stiff. It's a little like a grill for your legs.  There are also heated carpets, similar to some electric blankets back home.  These are actually quite nice, but does require me to sit on the floor, which is slowly taking toll on my back and knees.   

I am told “But it is hot during summer, so we need to let the air flow through to cool our homes.”  But surely if you had insulation, once you use the air-conditioner that you are going to use anyway, the cold air will be insulated in!  It's no where near as cold as it was when I lived in Finland, hitting -30 degrees C, but at least there you always had the positive prospect of once entering your home your frozen limbs could be thawed out in the general room ambience rather than feeling like you're stepping out the fridge into the freezer when you walk through the entrance door.  

Mum, please send firewood!  I'm going to have to start a small bomb-fire in the living-room to make to make it through Christmas!

Thursday 13 December 2012

Onsen in the Snow

I took a drive up to Yubara to join some friends for a dip in a local outdoor hot spring (Onsen). This particular onsen is free, welcome to all (Even those with tattoos, normally a no-no for onsens) and unlike some onsens is outside. Normally onsens are split by gender, with a side for women and one for men, as, for those of you who don't know, you onsen only in your birthday suit (Nude). This onsen is mixed, but the ladies do tend to use towel like robes to hide their modesty, and frantically I don't blame them due to the blatantly, leering, old, Japanese, men.

I had want to try this onsen for a while as it's quite famous and because it's outside, by the side of a river.  I had also heard it forecast for snow and thought it would be quite an experience to be outside in a hot bath in the snow. There wasn't much snow when we got there, but as soon as we got a mini snow blizzard hit whiting out the view. It was quite incredible and an onsen is a great place to be on such a cold day.  If only I had one in Shoo.


The 30th Birthday

I was a little bit down about welcoming in such a milestone of a birthday so far from my good friends and family back home; the people that know me so well and would celebrate with me as only they know how. On a day-to-day basis, I enjoy the unfamiliar world of living in another country with surprises around every corner, but sometimes the familiarity of home is what is required. Not to mention feeling down about rolling from the free and youthful feeling of being a twenty-something into the responsible, adult like requirements of a thirty-something and all it entails.

However, I need-not-have-worried, from my wife and all her little helpers rallied to my aid, to put on a party to remember, worthy of such a landmark age. And while I got some wonderful gifts, the best of all was the messages from my friends and family, near and far, which was then collected, edited and presented together in a beautiful video message. I must confess, I cried a little. It was so moving to feel loved by so many people.

The party itself was amazing. Balloons and banners, a steak as big as my head and drinks on tap; friends, toasts, karaoke and a hangover to match.

Thank you to all for the party and your messages, and thank you to my wife for putting it all together.

Saturday 1 December 2012

Thank You Mum

A big thank you to my mum, to who it seems apparent that she will always see me as her 'little boy', for sending me a homemade advent calendar with small goodies to put in it. Thank you.

The Harvest

My Kocho-sensei (Principle) at my Junior High School has taken me under his horticultural wing after I mentioned I missed picking blackberries in London. Behind the pool (Don't get excited, all schools have them. They are outside and cold) at my school there is garden of various Japanese delights. Today we took a large harvest of shiitake mushrooms, daikon (A large white radish) and chinese lettuces. On the photo it doesn't look too much, but those baskets are are about 50cm in diameter and some teacher took a load already. Took a bag full of goodies home to cook with. Can't get much fresher than this.  

Best Tempura EVER

Made some tempura the other night and for a while I had be coming out with a thick dough like crust rather than the thin crispy fried coating that really makes the tempura. I found a new recipe online and it stated what not to do, rather than what to do and it turned out perfect. The shiitake mushrooms were so fresh too. I've put the link below:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Tempura-Shrimp-and-Vegetables-352102

Basketball Tournament

I've been playing with a local basketball club in my town for a while now. I didn't want to tell anyone as I thought it was just a matter of time before I dislocated my shoulder again. However, (Touch wood) its holding out. And its been really fun to play with them. They have such good sportsmanship and its a fun level of basketball too. Starting to make a few friends there too.

Last week, we had a tournament, hosted by my club. Some games were very easy, others not so much. We came out 3rd overall, but I think we all felt we could have done and played better. Frustration of starting to feel my age with various aches and pains (30 next week), as well as simply just not being as fit as I used to be does get to me. I know I used to be better. But still, playing with this team is always the highlight of my week.  

Monday 19 November 2012

Kyoto Coloured Leaf Hunting - 京都 紅葉狩り

Kyoto is a great place to go for sightseeing as you cant throw a stone in the city without hitting a beautiful temple, shrine or Japanese garden. But in autumn, the scenery takes on a whole new level, thanks to the Japanese Maple and Ginko trees which burst into vibrant red and yellow. The colours are so bright it almost looks artificial and the photos really don't do it justice.

 

The weather was not on our side and we were rained on almost the whole time we were there, but that didn't stop us. Nor did the fact my shoes weren't as waterproof as I had original though. I have been to a lot of places in my life, but I was genuinely awestruck at how beautiful it was.  A big thank you to my patient wife who did not complain at her having to constantly wait for me to take over 900 photos throughout the day.


Autumnal Japan

Autumn is a great time to be in Japan. A lot of the trees change colours with dramatic affect. The red leaves almost look on fire and yellows seem to glow they are so vibrant. Going to Kyoto soon which has some amazing spots to see the leafs change, so I hope the leafs with will still be in colour and on the trees.


Autumn also brings autumnal clouds, something I didn't realise was seasonal. But the wispy lines of clouds, as shown below, mainly only appear in Autumn.


Another Festival

I know having taken part in my own little towns festival how much goes into the force used to bash their Mikoshi (mobile shrines together), but Kuse festival was something else. The shrines are larger and on wheels. They look like boats and have a small helm for people to bang away at big drum in a rhythmic fashion. The force that they collide with and the fact there are so many people rushing around, it is surprising no one is hurt.


The stools also had some fine delicacies, with more things on a stick than you can shake-a-stick at; including banada cover in chocolate, squid in a sweet sauce, intestines of some animal and tiny toffee apples (Which makes sense as you can eat it so much easier).



We also had Maki's parents and her grandmother with us. Her grandmother is 90 years old, but must be some kind of super human, she had been walking up and down mountains all day, the festival in the evening and still looked ready for more, with a permanent smile on her face. She can hear better than me and she has eyes like a hawks. I think if the 'Fountain of Youth' can be found anywhere, it's in Okinawa.

Monday 5 November 2012

Japanese Weird Confessionary – Part I – Make Your Own Gummy Sweet

Japan has some odd sweets and over the next few weeks we'll show you some of the stranger and unique ones. Todays is how to make your own gummy sweet with pretty colours and using special powders, water and stencils. Check out the Youtube video, too (Sorry it's a bit long, the next one will be more concise).



Supermarket Squid

Just another normal day at the supermarket buying a rather large squid.

Mini-Sumo

One of my elementary schools (Primary school) had an 'event' last week. You see, they do Sumo as part of their P.E. Lessons, which I think is great, keeping the Japanese tradition alive. But there is something special about their Sumo ring. It's not a 'ring' at all, it's square. Now, I'm probably like you and thinking “So what John, big whoop.” But, this is the ONLY one that is square in Japan, or for that matter, the World's. It's such a big deal that news crews from every major channel in Japan turned up to film the small children battling it out on this square Sumo-Dohyo. I almost got an interview by NHK (Japanese version of the BBC) but they ran out of time and had to dash of to another story. However, I could be seen in the background on some reports. It was fun to watch the kids wrestle and let's face it, an easy day at the office.

Saturday 3 November 2012

Random English of the Month – Happiness

I found Happiness and on the same week I found God, too (See the previous article). Its conveniently in bottle form.

If I Read Any More Japanese Today I'm Going to be Sick!

I'm hard studying. I'm studying for a Japanese test that I will take on December 2nd. But there is a lot to study in a short space of time!

Since my frustration overload with Japanese over the summer, I had been trying to motivate myself for getting back into a routine for studying and wanting to study again. It's not easy. When I was in Italy, the words came so easy and I could see the progress from day to day. But with Japanese it's like a game of snakes and ladders with no ladders! Just when I feel like I'm making some minimal kind of progress, I land on another metaphorical snake. But, nevertheless, I find drabs of motivation and time to study hard. I am slowly chipping away at the sum 400 words I need to study (These are only the ones I don't know that are required for the test) and the 111 Kanji (Chinese style characters) required to pass the test.

With the Kanji, I have a love / hate relationship. Sometimes it can be beautiful and poetic, easy to read quickly when you know and random scribbles of meaningless script, bemusing and confusing, when you don't. Sometimes they come easy and with my creative mind I can assign stories to their meaning and sounds. For examples, the Kanji for 'east' , looks like a the Kanji for 'tree' with the 'sun' rising behind it. Where does the sun rise? In the east. It almost remembers itself. Others are more like pictures themselves, like to rain . Tell me that doesn't look like rain through a window! Others are too complicated to remember, like the 23 strokes it takes to draw the Kanji .

My grammar, however, is serious poor and trying to work out what goes where and how to change it when your dealing with a language as far from your own as hieroglyphics, it can kind of be expected. But my greatest stumbling block seems appears to my reading speed. I've always spoken Japanese and there isn't a real need to read basic sentences like “I like sushi” or “This is Yamada-san's bag”. The test I will take requires a lot of reading, and while I know if I study hard to remember the 400 words of vocabulary, the 111 Kanji symbols and get my head around the principles of Japanese grammar; my fear is, if I can't answer enough questions, I won't pass. Bare-in-mind, this is the simplest of 5 test and you might have some idea of the Everest of a language I am staring up at from the lowest base camp.

Watch this space!

Monday 22 October 2012

Two Mountains, One Day (Part 2 – Nagi-san)

After our awe-inspiring journey above the clouds (Ok, I know its just fog), we got a call from a friend who was climbing one of the other nearby mountains. I had been wanting to try to climb this one for a while as I've heard its a good climb and has great views on a clear day. So, we decided “What the hey” and set off for our second mountain of the day.

The weather was perfect, sunny but not too hot. The climb wasn't so easy, the path was steep and while well marked covered in small unstable rocks to help get some traction on the mud. I am unfit and my asthma doesn't like me climbing mountains, but I persisted with the climb. At about the 1000 metre point, there is a large rock call Okami-iwa. We sat on the rock to take a rest and watched the valley sprawled out below.

When we finally made it to the top we were all pretty exhausted, but the view was our reward. The valleys, hills and mountains seemed to stretch on for as far as the eye could see, blurring off into the haze of the horizon. All in all, a memorable Saturday.



Two Mountains, One Day (Part 1 – Oyama-san)

At the moment the nights are really cold, but during the day the temperature goes up to 25 degrees and each morning we have thick fog. I heard that if you were to go up to a nearby mountain early in the morning, you pop up above the fog which settles in the valleys. So Maki and me set off early last Saturday morning to see if it was true. As we drove up the mountain a hazy sun started to come into view. Suddenly there was blue sky above and a sea of fog beneath us, like we were on a white, fluffy cloud. Small islands of hill tops dotted the white horizon and the trees near their base blurred into the whiteness. It was rather odd to see as we are so used to see clouds above us, when you see them below, you feel like you're not sure which way is up anymore. Its one of the views that will stay with me forever. We stayed about an hour as watched as the white dissipated and cleared, revealing Yunogo town below.  


How I met God!

Lunch with the Junior High School is always hit and miss depending on who I end up sat with. Some students revel in the opportunity to have a one-on-one with me, to test there English or ask me odd and personal questions. Others resent having to sit with their teacher, for fear their peers might consider them 'square' and give me a stoney-faced silence. The other day was interesting. I was having a lively conversation with the class clown about why I wasn't going to give him my pudding, when the girl next to said in perfect English “I am God!” I was a little taken back, I must admit. It certainly wasn't expecting that. I thought I'd misheard. “What?” I said. She repeated “I am God!” She looked calm and honest, not like someone saying something for a joke. Was she really God?!? Had God returned to Earth for the second coming as a small Japanese school girl!!?! I said “You are God?” “Yes,” she replied. It was clear but I was still confused. “God” I said pointing to the sky to confirm she understood what God meant. “Yes”, she said, “I am God”. “No you're not.” I returned, testing her will. “Yes, I am,” she calmly replied. “I am God!” I was getting no where. I asked her “Why?” She said “My name is God”. The answer I'm afraid is a little mundane in comparison the all might returning to Earth an announcing him/herself to me during lunch. Her name in Japanese is Kami. This means god.

Monday 8 October 2012

Yet Another Festival

This festival was Kintokimatsuri, a festival to celebrate the Japanese folk law of 'Kintaro' or golden-boy. The legend goes that Kintaro was a child of abnormal strength. There are various routes the story about his life take. Some say he is based on the Samuri, Sakata no Kintoki; some say he was an orphan left in the wild and others say he was the son of a wealthy-man. They all, however, agree on the point he was a active and indefatigable, plump and ruddy, wearing only a bib with the kanji for "gold" () on it. He is meant to have been born and also buried in Shoo, where I am living, and is often depicted riding on the back of a black bear he has meant to have fought and tamed in the wilds.


The festival was a mishmash of stalls and vendors, with a stage for dancing, singing and so on. It didn't seem to be as traditional as I had thought. The traditionally dressed dancers in Yukatas actually danced to a modern piece of composition called “Kintokun – Samba”! How samba has reached its was into Japanese folklore, only the composer knows. But sometimes, it does look as though Japan does have problems bring the traditional into the 21st century, even though I do sometimes preach about how well Japan melds its heritage with the modern World.

Chocolat de Tomato?


I did a cartoon style double take when I saw this on the supermarket shelf. Really? Tomato flavoured chocolate? I will have to try it and let you know how bad it is. 

Thursday 4 October 2012

Kids Say the Funniest Things


I was doing a lesson on “I can ...” “Can you …?” and reviewing a few of the words from the previous lesson using my flash cards. There is this handicapped girl in the class who loves English. She does quite well and enthusiastically yells answers out with great gusto and confidence, even if she's wrong. The words were simple like “Baseball. I can play baseball.” “Swim. I can swim.” and I get the students to repeat after I say them. Then it came to “Cook”, at which point this girls begins yelling out at the top of her voice a distinctive “COCK”; repeatedly. The 'home room teacher' (HRT) I was working with doesn't have an amazing level of English, but judging by his reaction, I had a far idea that he had understood as well. She was still saying it. “Cock, cock, cock!” It took me a little longer than usual to regain my composure. I tried to re-pronounce the word without drawing attention to her as if I let on to the rest of the class this is a bad word, they'll then want to know what it mean and I'm not digging myself in to that hole (Again). So I repeated “Cook. I can cook.” Unfortunately she didn't grasp the subtle difference and I was hit with another flurry of “Cock!” I turned to her, my HRT now in a fit of giggles, but also a little perturbed; “No, coook.” “Cock.” “No, cooook. I can cooook.” “Cock. I can cock.” Needless to say this went on a while, but its hard to describe that bizarre feeling of a small Japanese child shouting 'cock' in a classroom.

The same day, I had my lunch with a very energetic first grade elementary school class. I had finished my school lunch and one or two other kids had finished by that point too. They went to the teacher to ask for dessert. I was a little confused as there was no dessert today. It turned out they were stickers, awarded to children who eat all their lunch before the bell. As I had finished I was apparently also eligible for a sticker and so I obtained myself a doughnut for my polo-shirt. The kids were then showing me all the stickers they had collected over the last few weeks. One cheeky little boy came up to me and presented his sticker of a hot-dog. He said “Frankfurter” point to the sticker and then to his gentleman parts with the cheekiest, proudest smile on his little face. I thought, I have to diffuse this now. So I thought the best thing was to correct him. “No, thats a 'sausage'” pointing at the sticker. To which he said “Sausage?” pointing at the sticker. “Yes”. He then shouted “SAUSAGE!!!!!!” point again at his crotch, running off to tell all his classmates. I should have seen that one coming really.

Thursday 27 September 2012

Strange Behaviour

In England we know when to say good morning, good afternoon, good evening and good night, but for a while I've had the feeling that the Japanese people are playing a trick on me. I have quickly understand that Ohayogozaimasu (Good morning) is only said very early on, not until 12 as back home. But the line between Konnichiwa (Good day) and Konbanwa (Good evening) was throwing me into a world of confusion. I understand back home the line is blurred, but if someone says “good evening” it would be just plain rude to reply with “Good afternoon”, as you many have well said “Actually, I think you'll find its still in the afternoon you simpleton!” But for a while now, just when I think I have it figured out someone replies with the opposite. Finally I came to the conclusion that it must be just when the sun sets that it becomes evening, with a grey area around dusk. However, last night while walking to my Eikaiwa (Private English) class, in the pitch black, I met a man coming the other way. I said confidently “Konbanwa” to which he replied “Konnichiwa.” It appears the locals are just messing with me.

My second story of oddity comes from one of my schools. I had a lesson today and to pass the time while the teacher gives some Japanese explanation, instead of standing there like a pleb, I walk up and down the rows, checking the spelling, punctuation and slacking students. I had noticed something strange about one student. As I come up her row she gave me an evil look, and scooted her table over to one side, sighing, huffing and puffing. I hadn't asked her too, nor was there not enough room for me. I winded my way through the class and on my return made my way down the other side of her row, to which the response was further huffing and sighing and the slight moving of her table in the other direction. This also provoked some chuntering under her breath. I thought, it probably nothing, but for the purpose of science, I would test this further throughout the lesson. Each time, she would shunt her desk away from me and the further violations of her oversized personal space also invoked the closing or covering of her book so I couldn't see to correct or approve her workings. Have I given her this complex? Did I ask her once to move her desk over as it was blocking my access and now she feels every time I pass she need to give me a wide birth? I can't remember issuing such a demand. I decided to try and bridge the void, but how? At that point her friend tried to pass her a note, her eyes caught mine, 'busted'. So I smiled, nodded to show my approval that I am the cool kind of teacher that lets that kind of thing slide; to which her reply was a scowl so harsh I genuinely believe she was trying to burn a hole in my head with her eyes. “Teenagers!” I thought, as I circled back down her row to make her scoot over again.

Monday 17 September 2012

Cycling Onomichi to Imabari

A friend had heard about a cycle route in Hiroshima that runs 76km over 7 islands with amazing views. I've never cycled that far before, but it sounded like a good challenge; so we decided to take it on.


There were six of us in totally, we hired our bikes and set off; untrained and unfit. The weather was in our favour, sunny but with a cooling breeze. It really was a beautiful. The paths were made for cyclists and smooth to ride on. The bridges that spanned the islands were massive and each unique. We planned to make a night stop in Ikuchi island, only 27km into our journey as we had used most of the day to drive to the start from our respective homes. By the time we reached the mishuku (cheap style B&B) our rears were saddle sore and our legs like jelly. We made it to a small beach and soothed our aching bones in the salty water, after which we ate, drank and slept like babies.


Even the next day, I'm not sure any of us had full confidence we would be able to make the remaining distance, especially as we winced in pain climbing into our seats to set off. But our determination out-weighed the pain and we soon clocked up the kilometres. We sang and kept going, only stopping to grab a drink or take a quick snap-shot. The last bridge seemed to stretch on for ever and the following 6km felt like 20km, but finally reach the final destination. 49km in one day. It didn't hurt as much as it was tiring but I think we all felt good having achieved such a challenge. The reward, a well deserved bowl of steaming Onomichi Ramen (Chinese style noodles in soup with pork belly).

Sunday 9 September 2012

Japanese Playgrounds Have the Best Slides

My friend, Thijs and me going down a long roller style slide at the local farmers market as Thijs goes backwards. It's longer than it looks.

  

Random English of the Month – Bad English

This month, it's more bad English rather than random English. Granted there is a similarity between the English R and L in Japanese, with the らりるれろ sounding like a mix between the two letter, but there is still a big difference between a fork band and folk band.


Also, if you are going to manufacture a notebook especially for learning English words, surely you'd get someone just to double check the grammar before putting them into mass production! Apparently its convenient for learning AN English word, but just one mind.

Personal Space


I have always had the impression that Japanese people had the largest 'personal space' in the World. This still might be true, as I think if I tried standing close to a stranger, it might make them feel very uncomfortable. However, I never realised how 'tactile' Japanese people can be. My students are especially touchy and equally violent in a playful'ish way. But they are only affectionate in this way with students of the same sex! If they have to touch someone of the opposite sex, as in the dances I've seen for the annual sports day, they looks positively disgusted with having to interact with someone not of their gender. If such same gender touching went on in a British playground, it wouldn't be long before the childish name calling of “oh your so gay” would be batted around. Not so in Japan. Maybe this is because (And as always, this is only my single observers option) that to be gay here is almost a myth. It does feel like homosexuality is shunned in Japan and maybe in the city the gay community have their place; however, here in the hilly farmland of Okayama, its seemly not only non-existant, but doesn't even seem a reality. Another ALT I know here was talking to a Japanese person about their gay friend and the Japanese person understood them to mean 'camp'. When they were corrected, they told me the Japanese person looked positively shocked and a little in denial that someone could actually be gay.

Two male junior high school students came up to me for a chat before the class with their arms around each other, one announcing that the other boy was, in English, “...my boy friend.” I like to think of myself as a liberal minded individual, but I believed they were mistaken. I clarified in Japanese at which point their happy faces dropped, pushed each other away and said “No, no, no, no!” It's good that children of this age can be affectionate, but it's really sad that homosexuality isn't as accepted.

Adding to the physical interaction seems to be the Japanese mind set on comedy, or at least what is considered funny. The Japanese sense of humour seems to appeal to the lowest common denominator, slapstick; or as it's similar referred to as, Manzai. For me I miss the eloquent wit of British comics like Steven Fry and the rest of the QI bunch, where a punt is something one must earn through intellect. Or the story telling observational comics like Rhod Gilbert or Eddie Izzard. Or even the randomness of the classics like Monty Pythons Flying Circus. But no, in Japan, what gets a laugh is hitting a man around the head in a silly way, “... sigh”. And so this is what the kids find funny and there is a lot of slapping and wrestling which at first is actually quite shocking. Even with the teachers the students are very physical. I've seen students push teachers like its nothing, and the teachers look of the same option.  

Wednesday 29 August 2012

Newspaper Articles

A couple of you might remember from my earlier posts a message about my mug-shot and all my information appearing in the local newspaper. Since then I've been writing an article each month for this newspaper about little snippet of my month and what it's like as a foreigner in Japan. Sometimes it's fun to write and sometimes it a chore, but I always try and end up with some kind of moral, mostly that you should study English and don't give up (The irony of my recents annoyances has been noted). It is a sugar coated reality but if any of you are interested, we've now found out they put the newspaper online for the whole World to view. If you want to have a look please ask me for the link or check my Facebook group 'Our Man In Japan' (I don't want to link from my blog, sorry) and click of the cover page to get a PDF. I'm usually nearer the back and it's in English and Japanese.

Monday 27 August 2012

Hiroshima Food

Yes mum, I am eating well! In Hiroshima we ate some good food, including a local style おこのみやき (Okonomiyaki, Japanese pancake with lots of ingredients mixed in) with soba noodles in it. I'll be honest, not a big fan of the noodles with it, but it did taste really good.

Also got to try 穴子 (Anago, a smaller eel, similar to unagi). Very nice and much cheaper than my much loved unagi, with its sweet sauce. Hmmmm, eel.


 

Elevators, Escalators and Automatic Doors!

It's an odd topic I know, but its something rather 'strange' about Japan for me and something I always notice.

Automatic doors are too slow. WAY TO SLOW. Every time I want to walk through one I end up stopping with my face a inch from the glass waiting for them to spring into action. The amount of times I've nearly face-planted myself on them is silly. It's not like I'm taking a run up either, it's just a normal pace, not even the fast London pace, more like a chilled stroll.

Where as elevators/lifts shut hard and fast without warning. And unlike back home, if you give them a gentle nudge and they open again, these don't. I saw a frail old lady crushed by an elevator door and had to dive for the button to save her. She looked stunned like deer in the headlights.


Escalators also have their own rules. Unlike at home, most escalators have signs indicating you cannot walk on them. Those that you can seem to have a rule that you stand on the left side, not the right side as in London. I had some angry looking people in Osaka because I was stood on the right.

In Japan, nothing is what you expect. And just when you think you've got it, an elevator door swings you a right-hook.  

Sunday 26 August 2012

Crazy Lady

While we were in Okinawa we went to Bise, a old area with a tree lined road that arches to form a leaf covered walk way. This Okinawan women walked up to us and very friendly started chatting. Her hair was ginger and frizzy almost like an afro and she looked so happy. I understood she was then pointing to the sky and saying there was an American plane and can we hear it. I was a little confused, I couldn't see or hear anything. She was saying “Wakarimasu, ahh, anata wa wakarimasu, ne” (You understand don't you!). I explained I understood, but I couldn't see any plane, but she kept saying it. Maki looked a little odd and then told her she understood to calm her down. She took our photo for us under the trees and left. It wasn't until after she left I really understood how crazy she was as Maki explained the blanks in my Japanese understanding. She wasn't just imagining American planes, she was saying the sun was an American plane! She was saying “You see that fiery ball in the sky, it's an American plane! You know what I mean don't you, don't you!?” こわいよ! But in Okinawa, even the crazy people are friendly.

Saturday 25 August 2012

John VS Gundam


My parents once brought me some Gundam figures for Christmas. I loved them because they involved building them and then fighting them, what more could a little boy ask for on Christmas day. So when I heard there was a large one the other side of Tsuyama, a special trip was in order. This metal monster took a diehard fan 7 years to build and the details are incredible. At 7 metres tall, it's an imposing thing.

Friday 24 August 2012

10,000 Eisa

While in Okinawa we managed to catch a festival of 10,000 Eisa Dancers. Eisa is the traditional Okinawa dance and this was preformed on the main street in Naha with over 10,000 dancers marching, singing and some playing instruments. It was good to see so many different styles and I learnt a lot from the ちょんだら (Eisa drunken, oldman, clown type character) for the next time I preform ;D