Thursday 28 March 2013

Boxes and Suitcases

Well, its almost time to go and I am currently living in a cardboard box fortress. I feel so many mixed things about Japan. There is so much I love and so much I don't love so much, its hard to decipher some kind of collusion from all of this. On the whole, I have loved living in Japan and I don't for one second regret coming here. It has been an experience of a lifetime and a daily roller-coaster ride of randomness, pleasure, excitement and side of confusion. Japan has tested me, but I like to think I leave a wiser man than when I arrived. A year is short, but it seemed to fit with the work back home and another year would have gone one of two ways; I would have either loved it so much I'd never come back to England or it would have drove me insane and made me bitter about this island nation.

Too Close to See the Wood for the Bamboo

I can't help feeling once I leave I will appreciate this experience much more. I have lived here for so long, sometimes its hard to think about my life in England. It's going to seem like a reverse culture shock coming back and maybe I'll miss a lot of things I took for granted in Japan. But, if travelling as much as I have has taught me anything, its that no place is perfect and there is no place like home.

Good Goodbyes

I should mention and reiterate after my rant at Japanese culture the other week that there are some amazing things about Japan and Japanese people. I've had some very fond goodbyes from teachers, students and friends in the last few days. I have been given presents, flowers and dinner. On leaving my each of my three schools for the last days I received a round of applause from all the teachers. But most impressively, I have received HUNDREDS of goodbye notes and letters from my students. The general consensus is that they have enjoyed my lessons and that I made learning English fun and easy. It is one thing to get complements from the teachers but when its from the students I feel I have something truly to be proud of. I must have high-fived 95% of the students in one school goodbye as they all left on the last day. I know I've only been here a year, but hopefully I have made an impact on some peoples lives.

I, however, am crap at goodbyes. Especially when I might not see that person again. I have not idea how to end it. So here is a picture of me and some teachers:

Mask Culture

Japanese people love their surgical masks and you see them wearing them all the time. I cant but help find it a little antisocial and intrusive. I understand if someone is concerned about their health, but I know some people who wear theirs all the time. I see people wearing them in their cars driving home. It doesn't seem to be just about preventing colds or population, but also a metaphorical mask. Japanese people can sometimes be very shy and I guess hiding behind a 'mask' gives them a little security. Although, maybe Im wrong and they just paranoid about germs.

Super-Fugu

On a recent visit to the supermarket to purchase on some selection of sashimi, I noticed one that I hadn't tried before. It was Fugu! For those of you not in the know, Fugu is a very dangerous fish, most of which is lethally poisonous, so the sushi chef has to be very skilled to extract the right bit. Its not something I wanted to try as it's not too nice from what I've heard, just never expected to see it in the supermarket!

Cycling in Japan

Japan is full of cyclist and it quite a casual mode of transport. The school kids all cycle to school come rain, shine or blizzard (Literally) and some of the High School girls wear too shorter shirts to be cycling on such a windy day! I've nearly had a few collision driving to work because of this. But cyclists in Japan on the whole seem very lax about the idea of safety. Japan as a whole, although bureaucratic hasn't been taken over by the 'Health and Safety Police' yet, unlike in Britain where I recently heard that triangular biscuits in one school have been banned due to their eye-poking corners (True story). But the way Japanese cyclist float from side to side of the road makes me cringe a little, let alone their lack of helmets and even lights at night. As someone who has been hit by a car on my bike I feel the need to express how fearful I am for Japanese people meandering across the tarmac into the path of my vehicle.
Japanese people, please cycle safe!

Wednesday 27 March 2013

The Saddest Goodbye

It almost makes me feel bad as I feel I should be saying that I will miss the kids the most or even the teachers or friends I've made along the way. But truthfully, it is actually the basketball club I will miss the most!

Basketball used to be a huge part of my life when I was young and I had to stop playing as I kept dislocating my shoulder, something I still struggle with. However, since I have been playing here I haven't had any issues so far. It felt so good to get back to playing. But its more than that. I was the sense of normality, like I knew what was going on and where it didn't matter if I couldn't speak Japanese, just that I could speak 'basketball'. It didn't matter about culture, or kanji, or etiquette; just doing what I used to do best. It was my haven from the random, confusing world of Japan.

The group had welcomed me into their hearts too and actively made me fit in. They were pleased to see me and valued me as a friend. They interacted with me on more of a personal level that anyone else I met in Japan and I even got a nick name from them, 'Broccoli' (One girl couldn't say Buckley and it just sounded like broccoli, it stuck).

The last training session was amazing and so much fun. But at the end it was the saddest goodbye. I cried as I gave my farewell speech. I will miss them all.

All-You-Can-Eat Strawberries, Slides and BBQ's

For those friends with children who couldn't attend the evening drinks I want to do something family friendly. So we went to eat some strawberries at the local farmers market. To my surprise they have an 'all-you-can-eat' strawberry session. You have 50 minutes to pound down as many of the little red fruits you can get your hands on. Its also surprising how quickly you reach your strawberry limit and it flips from a fruit-feast to an epic-endurance contest.

We also took time out in the park to play on the slides and have an amazing Barbecue. It was a great day, spring has truly sprung and a great way to say goodbye to some good friends. 

Messages


I received a lot of written message from the students at one of my schools last Friday. It was incredible to have such thoughtful comments from my students and they all seemed to say the same thing; that I made English easy to understand and made it fun to learn. Coming from the teachers this would be one thing, but from the students this is a real seal of approval for me. Although this year has been short and I can only do so much, this makes it all worth wild.  

Leaving Speeches

With three schools, 28 classes and countless teacher and students, I have a lot of goodbyes to say. My first leaving speech was on Monday to my Junior High School. I was really nervous about it as I'd be doing it in Japanese in front of a lot of people. I had a speech for my teachers, but it was more the one in front of the whole school that concerned me. But, once I had poorly navigated the various procedures of bowing, sitting, standing and where to move to, the speech seemed to flow well; even though I had about 400 faces fully focused on me. As a surprise, one of the students gave a speech in English to me, thanking me for my time here and how he had enjoyed my easy to understand lessons and interesting twists on the lessons. He was amazing! And I found out later he wrote it on his own over the weekend! I was also presented with a bouquet of flowers by one of the girls I worked on the speech contest with. I then had to walk through the centre of the students to a round of applause. It was such a bizarre feeling as I won't leave just yet and I find it hard to accept I will be leaving as these things don't normally sink in until they happen.

How to Talk to Foreigners

Two weeks ago I had been very frustrated with Japan. But I think this must be one of the most profound things I have learnt about Japan and while it's always been kind of obvious, the larger picture I now see makes other things make sense to me now too. It sounds simple but “most Japanese people have no idea how to talk to foreigners.” I'm aware this is a sweeping stereotype and any Japanese person reading this is most likely a culturally sensitive individual who has taken time to understand not only English, but English/American culture. You see, while they are an exceptionally kind nation, most Japanese people don't have cultural sensitivity, for which there are many reasons:

They are an island nation and historically have cut off from the outside world for a long time. This also meant there willingness to 'integrate' with foreigners was almost cultural. This is slowly changing but will take more time. This compared to Britain's centuries of colonisation and trade gives us a massive head start in global and cultural interaction.

There are so few foreigners in Japan, less than 1% and I think even less where I'm living. Compared to Britain's generations of foreign immigrates and a population that is so diverse, we are more used to seeing, interacting, living with and being understanding to, foreigners of various colours, cultures and nationalities. But here I am constantly viewed as a novelty; strange and truly alien to everyone. Stared at in the streets and treated in a shifting scale between celebrity and circus freak. This leads to great excitement at first, but soon leads to great frustration as I just wanted to be treated normally. Some people are truly afraid of me, or in some case they think I'll be afraid of them; which is also why I find it hard to make new Japanese friends and practice my Japanese. Maki spoke to our neighbour recently about that we will soon be leaving, but reassured her that my American friend will be coming to live there and he is a great person. Her response was “What do I do? How do I talk to him? Can I talk to him? Won't I scare him?” Japanese people don't seem to understand we want to know them and talk to them. We just need some help with the language but at least give us the chance to try!

Race is a delicate subject, and it kills me to say it, but some Japanese people can be quite racist. It's not meant to be hurtful, they just don't know better. Whether its their stereotypes on colour or their viewpoint and forces hierarchic on certain other asian nations people. Once, in a class, I presented a flash card of a cartoon of a black girl running. The students choral response was “Monkey!” I was shocked. I know they were young, but not that young. I froze for a moment, unable to know what to do with this situation. I knew enough about Japan to know my explaining of this error would not be understood, but my moral compass felt unable to not correct this most grave of insults.

Japanese people sometimes struggle to talk to Japanese people, let along foreigners. The social construct of Japan doesn't lend to a relaxed atmosphere for freedom to converse as some might want. They tend not to live in shared houses and prefer to live with parents, alone or with a partner. As I've experienced, even if I am part of a group, like my teaching staff or sports club, trying to isolate someone out of that group to meet for a drink/meal for some personal interaction is almost impossible.

But mostly surprisingly to me, Japanese culture is constructed in such away to makes most Japanese people inherently culturally ignorant. Its not with malice but their inability to discuss or debate, and their extreme cultural differences that make them unable to understand me. There is a great willingness to help and welcome me, but when it comes to listening to my view points and thoughts on life, right and wrong and all things that make my culture; Japanese people seem to closed to hear or listen. They don't debate differences and see any difference as a conflict. “The nail that sticks out gets hammered down” comes into play here again, as they must conform to a Japanese way of thinking on all topics. Freedom of creativity can make you a social outcast. As a foreigner, I may not be always expected to understand or conform in the same way, but sometimes I must. And the problem is, if there is a conflict of interests, its impossible to explain why or even attempt to resolve a situation as they don't know how to discuss or debate.

The other day at a basketball tournament, I was playing against a very good team, but the player I was marking held my arm preventing me from moving. As we ran back I tried in my best Japanese to explain that this was a foul and not good. He laughed. What I didn't know at the time is that Japanese people laugh and smile when they feel uncomfortable. I took his laughter to be extremely insulting. So tried to correct him that this wasn't a laughing matter which escalated the situation. My team mates told me that I was in the wrong for being 'aggressive', not seeing the previous altercation and my reasoning. The problem is not that I didn't know, but I was unable to educate anyone that I had realised this was a simple misunderstanding. With most other cultures, you can explain your point of view and where the confusion was, or have even found out it was a misunderstanding early with a simple conversation. But their lack of ability to discuss and debate meant I was unable to get them to understand this was a misunderstanding. In fact, just bringing up the subject again made the situation worse. Japanese people prefer to ignore and pretend it didn't happen.

As a nation that needed to be good at working in groups to survive from when they used to be a farming nation, the success of the crop depended on their working as a team and forgetting any problems. This may be good for certain things, but not for resolving issues like the above. When someone in Japan is crying, they are taught to leave them alone. This is shocking for me as I want to help them. As a nation taught to ignore problems and not talk about feelings or issues, its no wonder it has the highest suicide rate in the world.

It is this lack of a desire to understand ME and MY culture that has in the last week caused me to become very frustrated with Japan. For the last year I have made as much effort as I can to integrate, learn the culture and the language and be as culturally sensitive as I can. But this appears to be a one way street with little or no give and take. And because of the culture, I can't even talk to them about my frustrations. I feel a lot of tension from certain people about leaving after one year, something of which a Japanese person wouldn't do, purely because its just not 'teamwork' and most people stay in the same jobs all their lives. Their inability to understand my reasoning for leaving leaves a bitter taste that I didn't want and I feel helpless to be able to reason or explain my thoughts, feelings, reasons or culture.

I would like to reiterate, those Japanese people who have made an effort to understand or been lucky enough to travel or live abroad are like calk and cheese compared to other Japanese people. The Japanese people I know from London are not only extremely culturally sensitive, but also have the best bits of being Japanese as well (Thoughtful, kind etc etc). Its like a cultural switch has been turned on and eyes have been opened.

But to any Japanese person who has stubbled across this blog, please, I implore you, tell your fellow country men and women, we are not that scary! We come in peace and want to be your friend. Try to understand us. Listen and consider our difference and be sympathetic of them. And if you already are, I thank you.

And I don't want this to taint or downgrade the MANY wonderful things about Japan and its people. They are still one of the kindest nations I have ever had the pleasure of meeting and they can still surprise me with their level of consideration and kindness in so many ways.

This is all also only my personal view point, but I also welcome any and everyones comments and/or views on this topic.