Thursday, 30 May 2013

Sayonara

Well, its been an emotional ride. 182 posts in a year documenting my highs and lows, the fun times and the hard times, the weird, the beauty and the sheer crazy. It's been a great therapy for me to write my thoughts and feelings and I have ended up with a open diary of my time in Japan. If I had the experience again, I would do a lot differently, but I will never regret going. It's been an amazing year, but while this blog has been a great outlet for me, I want to thank all those who have taken the time to read it. As I write this my google statistics tell me I have had 3166 page views from all over the World, from Brunei to Poland to Malaysia. However, it also tells me that 2 people have stumbled onto my blog by typing “naked Japan man” into google and a further two from “old lady tractor”!

But I want to say a big thank you to my friends, the avid viewers, the ones that have taken the time in some cases to read every single post. My heart was warmed the other day when I contacted a friend of mine who I haven't spoken to a long time, to which she told me she had been following my every post. It warmed my heart as I am happy it has brought such entertainment to them as it has been for me to write. Thank you.

Should any budding ALT's or for that matter veteran ALTs stumble across this blog, please let me know what you think and if you need any advice about your move to Japan, I'd be happy to guide you in the right direction. Incidentally, I have never mentioned on this blog which company I work for while I was in Japan, but I would like to share with those who find this that I highly recommend ALTIA Central. They are a smaller company than some out there, but because of that they have a friendlier/family vibe to them, which is why I chose them (And because they pay full salary for summer and winter holidays, the company car etc etc). They were up front and honest about getting me placements and where they could place me (Unlike Interac who royally screwed me over) and the training and materials they supplied helped me through the challenges the lessons face me. Nuff said.

And so, the end is here. The last post. I will hopefully be starting up a new blog of life in London and the trials and tribulations there of, so hopefully it will have some of the entertainment value with less of the sashimi, schools and running through the streets, semi-naked. Watch this space!

THANK YOU FOR READING AND GOODBYE!

Post-Japan

So it's almost been a month since we left Japan, but it feels so far away. Coming back to our old flat, with all our stuff, in the same place, with all our same friends, and on Monday the same job too; it's so normal, it's weird! And, in turn, before leaving Japan, living there felt so weird, it was normal!! But because everything is the same as we left it and my life is Japan was so different, it makes it seem like a year long dream. A dream of a life that never happened. I knew this was coming though, having lived abroad before, your lives are so separate there is nothing to connect them. But although I knew it was coming, I didn't want it to. I don't want this wonderful year to feel like it never happened or that I've been in a dreamy coma for the last 12 months. I want to cherish these memories and learn from this experience. I want to remember the good times and the bad; the red leaves and the cherry blossom, the pupils and the teachers, Shoo, Tsuyama, Okayama and beyond; the naked man festival, the skiing, the friends I've made, the food, the life in Japan. So I must keep reminding myself and keep it fresh. I must adorn my flat with photos and memorabilia. But I must also look forward to what comes next. 

Monday, 13 May 2013

Friend or Foe

On the plane back to the UK from Dubai, there was a British flight attendant serving us. Her kind attitude was almost shocking and it took me a while to piece together why. Why was I so shocked by her kindness as Japanese people are extremely kind and helpful, so why was this different? Well, this women talked to me like I was her friend. It was a level playing field and she spoke to me like I would to a good friend. While Japanese people are courteous, there is a distance there and while their heart is in the right place it can appear a little robotic. And while when you do actually becomes friends with a Japanese person they will be the very best of friends, for this initial first meeting there is almost a certain format of formality to a conversation, a level of hierarchy as though to be kind you must be a servant. When British people are kind they welcome you like a the friend they never knew they had.

Paradoxically, British people also speak there minds more. Not as much as some nations, but they don't hide it as much as Japanese people. Some comments can feel a little harsh after living in Japan and of course service from strangers is not always as friendly as my kind air hostess. But on the whole, I'm enjoying talking to strangers and I find the kinder I am the more polite and courteous they are.  

British Difficulties

  • Drama: In Japan, people don't really talk about the bad stuff to try and avoid any conflicting issues and TV is all Happy-Happy, everything is ok. But in the UK, drama is all-in-compassing and in your face. I'm not used to this gritty reality and to watch an episode of Eastenders is like all the 'Saw' movies rammed into a thirty minutes segment. I can't handle the drama!
  • Safety: Japan is one of the safest places on the planet. Being back here made me really on edge. Be it hoodies, broken car windows near my house or intimidating groups of thuggish looking times, Britain in comparison to Japan looks like you need armed guards. Only yesterday I was walking down Oxford street when a man came out of a side street chasing another man shouting “Stop that man, he's got my phone.” I managed to wrestle the offender to a standstill and we retrieved the mans phone, but what shocked me even more was that I was the only one to jump to the mans aid!
  • Work Ethic: I'm sorry, but there are a lot of lazy Brits who will do as little as they can to get paid or live. It isn't everyone, but enough to make life that bit more challenging, be it the bank manager who stuffed up changing my address so my card wouldn't work, the estate agent who tried to blame someone else for her shabby job or the women who I spoke to on the phone from BT who was no help. Come on Britain, get off your arse!

What did he say?

An odd thing about being back here is understanding everything. I mean EVERYTHING. With Japanese, I can zone out and just not try to understand, as understanding takes effort comprehend. But with English, it just flows in effortlessly, on the street, on the train, in the shops, everywhere. Here are my finest extract I have heard in the last few days:

Camp Large Man “...And so I said I was happy to take it from behind.”
Women “With which one?”
Camp Large Man “Both of them!”
They both laughed.

Stuff That Makes Britain AWESOME!

  • Central heating and insulation.
  • Lots of kinds of trees.
  • Our flat.
  • Reasonable mobile phone charges.
  • Bread.
  • A sense of humour.
  • Understanding people.
  • Sarcasm.
  • Debates.
  • Coffee shops, everywhere.
  • Cider.
  • My friends and family.
  • London.
  • Ice-cream vans.
  • Dave (The TV channel).

The Potato People


The first thing that hits you coming back the UK after a year in Japan is the people. The people are so varied; big, small, tall, short, fat, thin, white, black, brown, etc etc.

One thing that really sticks out, literally, are the facial features. Japanese faces are very soft and understated. But compared to that, British features are much more extreme and my mind can't help compare this to the randomness of potatoes! Let me explain: my grandad grew potatoes and I was used to seeing so many ugly, disfigured potatoes of all shapes and sizes, with knobbly bits, lumps and curves. It feels like someone has been playing Mr. Potato Head with a whole population.

The second thing that sticks out is how big people are. Let me put it less delicately, how 'large' some people are! After Japan, its really shocking. The only obese people I really see in Japan are sumo wrestlers and when you see so many people, not just overweight, but morbidly obese, it really is shocking. But it's the same for tall people. I saw a guy walking towards me in town today and he looked about 6'6” and ripped with a tight shirt. Well he looked like some super human muscle man from some other planet it was that extreme to me. It was at this point I realised I gorping and this man was looking back at wondering why this guy was staring at him, mouth open. Awkward!

The third would be, and there is no way I can really say this without sounding racist, but if you are of some other ethnicity than white or asian in Japan, you are in a serious minority. And Britain, especially London, is a wonderful cultural and racial melting pot of united nations. Nuff said?

Flights 7, 8 and 9 – Back to London

It was going to be a long flight and Okinawa to Osaka was just the drop of the iceberg. We had an 8 hour layover in Osaka before boarding our Emirates flight to Dubai, which was killed using the lovely KIX lounge, well worth the 1500 yen to sit on comfy seats, free wifi and nomihodai (All you can drink). A meal later and we were on our flight to Dubai, at 23:30! If youre booking a long flight, I recommend you ask for the 'Exit Seat'. This is the seat near the exit, so no seats in front of you (Don't worry, your tray and TV fold out from the seats). Dozing off and on for the next 10 hours, periodotically stopping to eat something I was sure was meant to be breakfast lunch or dinner. I cannot say enough good things about Emirates by the way. Serious cheap, great service, great food, nice planes, etc etc; or maybe it was a welcomed comfort compared to JetStar (FYI I should mention the problems I had were only on JetStar Pacific, JetStar Japan was totally different). A 3 hour layover in Dubai and onto the next Emirates flight to Heathrow. This 8 hour stretch was tough and there are only so many movies you can watch in a row, but I had the best meal I have ever had on a plane. Warn, tired, irritable and in desperate need of a shower, we arrived back in England. Only customs, baggage claim and a 2 hour tube ride lay ahead of us and the tube ride seemed to go on forever. But I'M BACK IN LONDON!

A Japanese Feast

It's no secret that I'm in love with Japanese food, so being back in this island nation called for a feast fit for an emperor, and my Okinawa friend Yuko-chan delivered with a fish specialist Okinawan restaurant. Sashimi, Tempura and fried fish kept coming to our table, each dish better than the last and Orion Beer and flavoured Umeshu flowing, it was bound to be a great night. I'll miss Izakaya's like this, the food, the drink and the company. 

Sunday, 28 April 2013

Japan Retraction


It's hard when your living abroad in any country, dealing with the language, culture and sometimes very challenging views. I now know in hindsight that maybe I should have taken a break from Japan at some point as having time away I appreciate Japan so much more. It's hard when there is no where to escape from the constant foreigness being part of your everyday life as there is only so long you can hide away in your rooms watching DVDs. Even though I love Japan, it's true that distance makes the heart grow fonder. I feel some of my blogs have been a little harsh because of this, and although I feel they all express my true thoughts and feelings I also want to express that these might be sometimes typed in the heat of the moment. This blog has also been a good therapy for me, either gathering my thoughts of venting my emotions. I feel if I had stayed another year or two, the experience would have been much richer, having had more time to study now my job experience has grown and take more time to 'live' Japan. It wasn't an easy decision to leave Japan and if I was younger, then it would have been a no brainer to stay another year, it just so happened that my situations at the moment sway more towards returning home. The first year is always most difficult and this year has had it ups and downs, but I don't regret doing it for a moment. 

Friday, 26 April 2013

Plane 7 – Osaka to Okinawa

JAPAN! OKINAWA! If I wasn't in serious need of sleep I would be doing cartwheels. I love you Japan with your order and politeness and hygiene. Zzzzz.

Plane 5 and 6 – Ho Chi Minh to Korea to Osaka

One word, tired. And next flight to follow...

Vietnam - Dam Sen Water Park

This water park in the middle of Ho Chi Minh is amazing, with slides galore, wave machines and even a moat that flows around in a circle transporting you calming online on a rubber ring. Vietnamese people here are soooo nice too. From the young to the old, they are here to have fun, smile and get wet.


Vietnam and Cambodia - Strange Fruit

One thing is for sure that South-East Asia has some of the strangest looking fruit on the planet; be it the ones you know like dragon fruit, star fruit papaya, mangos and pineapples, to the oddities of some smelly and uncommon items.

Durian fruit (Or Sau Rieng) is one of the smelliest foods on the planet and it something akin to rotting flesh. It smells so bad that hotels ban you taking it inside and is considered some what of a delicacy. I had wanted to try it since I travelled through Malaysia, almost 11 years ago (Am I really that old now?!), so I decided to take the plunge. I wish I hadn't, as the taste is as bad as the smell and I couldn't even swallow it.


I have no idea what this fruit was called, but the inside resembled a sweet lichee. Quite pleasant for a fruit.


Looking half-way between an artichoke and an armed large berry (On the right of the photo), little clue is given to the sweetness inside, other than the give-way name of 'Custard Apple'.


And there were many more besides, including Polemo, Star Apples, Rambutan, Longan and Jackfruit.  Not really a fruit, but we also tried Lotus seeds. Check out the video to see how to eat:

Cambodian - How Many People Can You Fit on a Motorbike?

Five apparently.


And much more beside. Vietnamese and Cambodian people have a knack for being able to stack, balance, strap and fix great loads to their their little mopeds; from large flower arrangements, to boxes, fridges, fishing baskets and lanterns. I even saw one carrying the largest pile of dead chickens in a large bate-ball of fowl and feathers hanging limp of the back of the bike.


The also tow trailers to make tuk-tuks and carry larger produce.


At first its really shocking, but then you are almost overcome with awe and impressed at how their skill in balancing such loads. It's a skill. 

Cambodia - Threading a Bus Through the Eye of a Needle


The bus ride from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh (Cambodias Capital) was some what of a white knuckle ride thanks to a lead-footed 'Giant Ibis' bus driver. It seems in both Cambodia and Vietnam that the bigger you are, the more right of way you have. It seems the only rule, but an important one. A person must give way to everything, where as a bike must give way to buses, cars and lorries. The shiny new Giant Ibis tourist bus seems to be at the top of this food chain, bullying, honking and pushing everything else out the way, making cars and motorbikes pull to the dirt on the side of the road and I figured we spend 50% of our time on the wrong side of the road. Sat in the front seat, Maki and I had a, well, front seat to this motorway-madness and there were so many times I thought “He can't seriously be over taking, can he?!?” But lorries coming the other way were no hinderance for this driver. The closest call actually came thanks to a cow! As we over took a lorry, a wondering cow and its calf decided this was a good time to cross. The brakes slammed on and the cows stood like a deer in the headlights only at the last second a look of terror filled their faces and bolted out the way, barely missing the bus by the hide of ones arse. And we have to board our bus back to Ho Chi Minh tomorrow. Wish us luck!

Cambodia - Angkor Wat and Siem Reap

The historic temple epicentre of Cambodia lyes around Siem Reap with the crowning jewel of Angkor Wat, a vast temple structure, originally Buddhist, then Hindu and then just a palace. With a large moat, walls, corridors inscribed with a pictorial story book and imposing towers, it's quite a sight. And during Khmer New Year the Cambodians mingle with the tourist in its grounds making its quite a busy looking place.


But there are many lesser know temples around Angkor Wat with varying degrees of repair, destruction and natural encroachment. I actually found the overgrown buildings more interesting, with trees tearing through stone structures and roots bursting from walls, twisting and hugging the buildings, almost making them look part of the building and the building part of the nature. Truly a once in a lifetime sight and worth the ridiculous amount of travelling to get here.

Vietnam to Cambodia

An 8 hour bus ride was needed to get across to Cambodia, which we only now know was during Khmer New Year, making moving around and buying stuff even more challenging. We expect a boring an uneventful trip, but with a strange boarder crossing, a stop off at a hospital to treat one of our fellow passengers who appeared to be having some kind of fit and a sudden realisation that at some point our bus had driven onto a river ferry with people selling dead frogs in baskets, it was anything but boring.

The step to Cambodia showed a vast difference in buildings with Cambodians seeming to all live in Shanty town style houses, in an ad-hoc 'shed on stilts' aesthetic. The next few day will be interesting.  

Plane 4 – Da Nang to Ho Chi Minh

Jetstar Pacific, you suck. Over an hour late, but not surprised this time. Sigh.

Vietnam - Hoi An – Cooking Course and Suits

Hoi An is a beautiful place midway up Vietnam, a seaside / port town with a historic charm unlike anywhere I've seen in Vietnam. The buildings seem to have been beautifully restored, but at a cost of tourism with every building either being a restaurant, tailors, bar, souvenir shop or museum.


We decided to undertake a cookery course which was very informative and also gave us the chance to make 4 dishes (And eat them).


And for $95 for a tailored suit, I couldn't really pass up the chance to have one made for myself.  

Vietnam – Water Puppetry


Vietnamese Water Puppetry was surprisingly entertaining, with good levels of humour and interest, fun for all the family. However, it is driving me crazy trying to work out how they do it. The puppets weave and pass each other too much!!!

Vietnam – Night Train


We thought it might be interesting to take a night train from Hanoi to Da Nang and maybe more reliable than Jetstar Pacific! But what is the last thing you want to see on your top bunk as you bed down for a 14 hour journey? Well, I saw a cockroach. Killed it, but had some messed up insect related dreams that night!


 

Sunday, 21 April 2013

Vietnamese Furniture

I'm not kidding, all they seem to use is plastic kids chairs mini tables plastic tables. All the real furniture is for the tourists. You want to eat real Vietnamese food, you gotta sit on kiddies chairs.

Vietnam - Hanoi Museum of Ethnology

OMG!

Vietnam - On The Streets

Everything in Vietnam is done on the streets. They eat, they sleep, they chat, they drink, they even have their nose hair trimmed on the streets. And when. They aren't on the streets they're on their scooters.



Plane 3 - Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi

Jetstar make Ryanair look like airline of the year! Our flight was 9:30, but cancelled so moved to 11:10. This was also cancelled and we were moved to 12:30. Somehow we were moved off this flight even though it was still flying at 12:30, we were moved to the 16:10 flight! There was also a 13:15 flight so I demanded we be put on this. We did get put on this, but it was also delayed about 40 minutes. It took all day, but made it to Hanoi in Northern Vietnam.

Hanoi seems so much more friendly than Ho Chi Minh, but just as intense.



Saturday, 13 April 2013

The Vietnam Odyssey - Ho Chi Minh

So, I know this blog is about "Our Man In Japan", but I felt it important to tell you how going somewhere else has altered my view of Japan. Having lived there for so long, I had forgotten how the rest of the world can be, a little too close to see the forest for the bamboo.

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh around midnight, tired and broken, thrown into a world of utter chaos, and it only got worse! I can not think I have come across a more insane, dirty, rude, vulgar, pestered city in my life. People compete and harass for your money and cons and scams lurk around each corner. A westerner to a Vietnamese person is like a walking ATM, and something you must try and extract as much money out of as possible, but maintaining a level of rudeness and condemnation I personally wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.

It makes me reflect on some of the more negative points I'd made about Japan and consider them in a new light. Maybe all I needed was a rest from Japan, to return as in love with it as I arrived. I know some stay longer than year, but its not a short time.

I miss the kindness of Japanese people, their willingness to help and guide a foreigner in need. I miss their order, their hygiene and their upfront pricing system that is the same for everyone (foreigner or native). Sometimes, to realise what you've got, you must experience what life is like with out it. "All is forgiven my Japanese friends" I think to myself as I narrowly avoid being hit by another motorbike.



Wednesday, 3 April 2013

Plane 2 - Seoul to Ho Chi Minh

It's not the same plane, honest.

Plane 1 - Osaka to Seoul

Goodbye Japan. See you again in three weeks.

The Maiko and the Samurai

Makiko and me did a bit of dress-up in Kyoto as a Maiko and a Samurai. It was rather a unreal experience and it just felt rather fraudulent as we are neither. But Maki seemed to really love it. She also had the chance to go out on the streets too to which there was great attention from many tourists trying to get a photo with her. For me, I felt she was a different of beauty nut it was too odd and she didn't look like my wife. But still had a good experience.





Monday, 1 April 2013

Blossom by Night





By Bike

It's the only way to see Kyoto on a sunny day. Especially with the beautiful blossom out in full bloom. Amazing timing to finish our time in Japan.



I will miss...

In many ways I will miss my life in Japan. I will miss the people who have moved mountains to make me part of their community and help in my way through this strange land. I will miss the food, too much to mention and I'm sure you know from my many posts on food how much I'll miss it. I will miss the children, their 'genki' like attitude to life, their smiles and playing games with them, not to mention how unbelievably cute they all are! I will miss the mountains, the trees, the lakes and rivers; the beaches, the old towns and the cities. I will miss the sun and blue sky and the snow in winter. I will miss the blossom in spring and the red leaves in autumn. I will miss vending machines and convenience stores. I will miss being the tallest person in most crowds. I will miss being special and unique. I will miss the cute girls checking me out (Lets face it, it doesnt happen in London). I will miss onsen and adventures. I will miss the joy of actually being able to read something in Japanese. I will miss those random moments when I have no idea what the hell is going on. I will miss teaching, though I look forward to get back to design. I will miss a lot about Japan and although I'll get to come back at some point, it won't be the same.

I will miss Japan.

Day 1 - Nomadic Life

Goodbye Shoo. Goodbye job. Leaving our almost empty flat still left me with feelings like I'm not really going anywhere. It makes me fearful that after I leave this will feel like a bizarre, year long dream. A mere fantasy. It also made me think of all the great things I've done this year, but also the things I wish I'd done or the things I wish I'd done differently. Living in Japan requires a huge learning curve and some trial and error. Maybe with this experience, the second year would have been better, but also maybe the novelty of small town life might wear off. I didn't want to have regrets, but they now seemed to cloud my mind. But the next phase of my life has begun...

It's the beginning of our month long, nomadic life before boarding our plane back to England and I'm starting off tired. I feel so confused about where I am and what I'm meant to be doing. Having no job, no flat, no ties (for the next month at least) should be liberating, but where do you start? I feel I've lost a little purpose, other than seeing stuff and finding somewhere to eat. I'm hoping I will soon begin to unwind and relax into the groove of being on a months vacation as one should. In some ways it's a bit like a working vacation being an ALT so many things won't be so different.

At the Station

Only women are allowed out on this train.

Thursday, 28 March 2013

Boxes and Suitcases

Well, its almost time to go and I am currently living in a cardboard box fortress. I feel so many mixed things about Japan. There is so much I love and so much I don't love so much, its hard to decipher some kind of collusion from all of this. On the whole, I have loved living in Japan and I don't for one second regret coming here. It has been an experience of a lifetime and a daily roller-coaster ride of randomness, pleasure, excitement and side of confusion. Japan has tested me, but I like to think I leave a wiser man than when I arrived. A year is short, but it seemed to fit with the work back home and another year would have gone one of two ways; I would have either loved it so much I'd never come back to England or it would have drove me insane and made me bitter about this island nation.

Too Close to See the Wood for the Bamboo

I can't help feeling once I leave I will appreciate this experience much more. I have lived here for so long, sometimes its hard to think about my life in England. It's going to seem like a reverse culture shock coming back and maybe I'll miss a lot of things I took for granted in Japan. But, if travelling as much as I have has taught me anything, its that no place is perfect and there is no place like home.

Good Goodbyes

I should mention and reiterate after my rant at Japanese culture the other week that there are some amazing things about Japan and Japanese people. I've had some very fond goodbyes from teachers, students and friends in the last few days. I have been given presents, flowers and dinner. On leaving my each of my three schools for the last days I received a round of applause from all the teachers. But most impressively, I have received HUNDREDS of goodbye notes and letters from my students. The general consensus is that they have enjoyed my lessons and that I made learning English fun and easy. It is one thing to get complements from the teachers but when its from the students I feel I have something truly to be proud of. I must have high-fived 95% of the students in one school goodbye as they all left on the last day. I know I've only been here a year, but hopefully I have made an impact on some peoples lives.

I, however, am crap at goodbyes. Especially when I might not see that person again. I have not idea how to end it. So here is a picture of me and some teachers:

Mask Culture

Japanese people love their surgical masks and you see them wearing them all the time. I cant but help find it a little antisocial and intrusive. I understand if someone is concerned about their health, but I know some people who wear theirs all the time. I see people wearing them in their cars driving home. It doesn't seem to be just about preventing colds or population, but also a metaphorical mask. Japanese people can sometimes be very shy and I guess hiding behind a 'mask' gives them a little security. Although, maybe Im wrong and they just paranoid about germs.

Super-Fugu

On a recent visit to the supermarket to purchase on some selection of sashimi, I noticed one that I hadn't tried before. It was Fugu! For those of you not in the know, Fugu is a very dangerous fish, most of which is lethally poisonous, so the sushi chef has to be very skilled to extract the right bit. Its not something I wanted to try as it's not too nice from what I've heard, just never expected to see it in the supermarket!

Cycling in Japan

Japan is full of cyclist and it quite a casual mode of transport. The school kids all cycle to school come rain, shine or blizzard (Literally) and some of the High School girls wear too shorter shirts to be cycling on such a windy day! I've nearly had a few collision driving to work because of this. But cyclists in Japan on the whole seem very lax about the idea of safety. Japan as a whole, although bureaucratic hasn't been taken over by the 'Health and Safety Police' yet, unlike in Britain where I recently heard that triangular biscuits in one school have been banned due to their eye-poking corners (True story). But the way Japanese cyclist float from side to side of the road makes me cringe a little, let alone their lack of helmets and even lights at night. As someone who has been hit by a car on my bike I feel the need to express how fearful I am for Japanese people meandering across the tarmac into the path of my vehicle.
Japanese people, please cycle safe!

Wednesday, 27 March 2013

The Saddest Goodbye

It almost makes me feel bad as I feel I should be saying that I will miss the kids the most or even the teachers or friends I've made along the way. But truthfully, it is actually the basketball club I will miss the most!

Basketball used to be a huge part of my life when I was young and I had to stop playing as I kept dislocating my shoulder, something I still struggle with. However, since I have been playing here I haven't had any issues so far. It felt so good to get back to playing. But its more than that. I was the sense of normality, like I knew what was going on and where it didn't matter if I couldn't speak Japanese, just that I could speak 'basketball'. It didn't matter about culture, or kanji, or etiquette; just doing what I used to do best. It was my haven from the random, confusing world of Japan.

The group had welcomed me into their hearts too and actively made me fit in. They were pleased to see me and valued me as a friend. They interacted with me on more of a personal level that anyone else I met in Japan and I even got a nick name from them, 'Broccoli' (One girl couldn't say Buckley and it just sounded like broccoli, it stuck).

The last training session was amazing and so much fun. But at the end it was the saddest goodbye. I cried as I gave my farewell speech. I will miss them all.

All-You-Can-Eat Strawberries, Slides and BBQ's

For those friends with children who couldn't attend the evening drinks I want to do something family friendly. So we went to eat some strawberries at the local farmers market. To my surprise they have an 'all-you-can-eat' strawberry session. You have 50 minutes to pound down as many of the little red fruits you can get your hands on. Its also surprising how quickly you reach your strawberry limit and it flips from a fruit-feast to an epic-endurance contest.

We also took time out in the park to play on the slides and have an amazing Barbecue. It was a great day, spring has truly sprung and a great way to say goodbye to some good friends. 

Messages


I received a lot of written message from the students at one of my schools last Friday. It was incredible to have such thoughtful comments from my students and they all seemed to say the same thing; that I made English easy to understand and made it fun to learn. Coming from the teachers this would be one thing, but from the students this is a real seal of approval for me. Although this year has been short and I can only do so much, this makes it all worth wild.  

Leaving Speeches

With three schools, 28 classes and countless teacher and students, I have a lot of goodbyes to say. My first leaving speech was on Monday to my Junior High School. I was really nervous about it as I'd be doing it in Japanese in front of a lot of people. I had a speech for my teachers, but it was more the one in front of the whole school that concerned me. But, once I had poorly navigated the various procedures of bowing, sitting, standing and where to move to, the speech seemed to flow well; even though I had about 400 faces fully focused on me. As a surprise, one of the students gave a speech in English to me, thanking me for my time here and how he had enjoyed my easy to understand lessons and interesting twists on the lessons. He was amazing! And I found out later he wrote it on his own over the weekend! I was also presented with a bouquet of flowers by one of the girls I worked on the speech contest with. I then had to walk through the centre of the students to a round of applause. It was such a bizarre feeling as I won't leave just yet and I find it hard to accept I will be leaving as these things don't normally sink in until they happen.

How to Talk to Foreigners

Two weeks ago I had been very frustrated with Japan. But I think this must be one of the most profound things I have learnt about Japan and while it's always been kind of obvious, the larger picture I now see makes other things make sense to me now too. It sounds simple but “most Japanese people have no idea how to talk to foreigners.” I'm aware this is a sweeping stereotype and any Japanese person reading this is most likely a culturally sensitive individual who has taken time to understand not only English, but English/American culture. You see, while they are an exceptionally kind nation, most Japanese people don't have cultural sensitivity, for which there are many reasons:

They are an island nation and historically have cut off from the outside world for a long time. This also meant there willingness to 'integrate' with foreigners was almost cultural. This is slowly changing but will take more time. This compared to Britain's centuries of colonisation and trade gives us a massive head start in global and cultural interaction.

There are so few foreigners in Japan, less than 1% and I think even less where I'm living. Compared to Britain's generations of foreign immigrates and a population that is so diverse, we are more used to seeing, interacting, living with and being understanding to, foreigners of various colours, cultures and nationalities. But here I am constantly viewed as a novelty; strange and truly alien to everyone. Stared at in the streets and treated in a shifting scale between celebrity and circus freak. This leads to great excitement at first, but soon leads to great frustration as I just wanted to be treated normally. Some people are truly afraid of me, or in some case they think I'll be afraid of them; which is also why I find it hard to make new Japanese friends and practice my Japanese. Maki spoke to our neighbour recently about that we will soon be leaving, but reassured her that my American friend will be coming to live there and he is a great person. Her response was “What do I do? How do I talk to him? Can I talk to him? Won't I scare him?” Japanese people don't seem to understand we want to know them and talk to them. We just need some help with the language but at least give us the chance to try!

Race is a delicate subject, and it kills me to say it, but some Japanese people can be quite racist. It's not meant to be hurtful, they just don't know better. Whether its their stereotypes on colour or their viewpoint and forces hierarchic on certain other asian nations people. Once, in a class, I presented a flash card of a cartoon of a black girl running. The students choral response was “Monkey!” I was shocked. I know they were young, but not that young. I froze for a moment, unable to know what to do with this situation. I knew enough about Japan to know my explaining of this error would not be understood, but my moral compass felt unable to not correct this most grave of insults.

Japanese people sometimes struggle to talk to Japanese people, let along foreigners. The social construct of Japan doesn't lend to a relaxed atmosphere for freedom to converse as some might want. They tend not to live in shared houses and prefer to live with parents, alone or with a partner. As I've experienced, even if I am part of a group, like my teaching staff or sports club, trying to isolate someone out of that group to meet for a drink/meal for some personal interaction is almost impossible.

But mostly surprisingly to me, Japanese culture is constructed in such away to makes most Japanese people inherently culturally ignorant. Its not with malice but their inability to discuss or debate, and their extreme cultural differences that make them unable to understand me. There is a great willingness to help and welcome me, but when it comes to listening to my view points and thoughts on life, right and wrong and all things that make my culture; Japanese people seem to closed to hear or listen. They don't debate differences and see any difference as a conflict. “The nail that sticks out gets hammered down” comes into play here again, as they must conform to a Japanese way of thinking on all topics. Freedom of creativity can make you a social outcast. As a foreigner, I may not be always expected to understand or conform in the same way, but sometimes I must. And the problem is, if there is a conflict of interests, its impossible to explain why or even attempt to resolve a situation as they don't know how to discuss or debate.

The other day at a basketball tournament, I was playing against a very good team, but the player I was marking held my arm preventing me from moving. As we ran back I tried in my best Japanese to explain that this was a foul and not good. He laughed. What I didn't know at the time is that Japanese people laugh and smile when they feel uncomfortable. I took his laughter to be extremely insulting. So tried to correct him that this wasn't a laughing matter which escalated the situation. My team mates told me that I was in the wrong for being 'aggressive', not seeing the previous altercation and my reasoning. The problem is not that I didn't know, but I was unable to educate anyone that I had realised this was a simple misunderstanding. With most other cultures, you can explain your point of view and where the confusion was, or have even found out it was a misunderstanding early with a simple conversation. But their lack of ability to discuss and debate meant I was unable to get them to understand this was a misunderstanding. In fact, just bringing up the subject again made the situation worse. Japanese people prefer to ignore and pretend it didn't happen.

As a nation that needed to be good at working in groups to survive from when they used to be a farming nation, the success of the crop depended on their working as a team and forgetting any problems. This may be good for certain things, but not for resolving issues like the above. When someone in Japan is crying, they are taught to leave them alone. This is shocking for me as I want to help them. As a nation taught to ignore problems and not talk about feelings or issues, its no wonder it has the highest suicide rate in the world.

It is this lack of a desire to understand ME and MY culture that has in the last week caused me to become very frustrated with Japan. For the last year I have made as much effort as I can to integrate, learn the culture and the language and be as culturally sensitive as I can. But this appears to be a one way street with little or no give and take. And because of the culture, I can't even talk to them about my frustrations. I feel a lot of tension from certain people about leaving after one year, something of which a Japanese person wouldn't do, purely because its just not 'teamwork' and most people stay in the same jobs all their lives. Their inability to understand my reasoning for leaving leaves a bitter taste that I didn't want and I feel helpless to be able to reason or explain my thoughts, feelings, reasons or culture.

I would like to reiterate, those Japanese people who have made an effort to understand or been lucky enough to travel or live abroad are like calk and cheese compared to other Japanese people. The Japanese people I know from London are not only extremely culturally sensitive, but also have the best bits of being Japanese as well (Thoughtful, kind etc etc). Its like a cultural switch has been turned on and eyes have been opened.

But to any Japanese person who has stubbled across this blog, please, I implore you, tell your fellow country men and women, we are not that scary! We come in peace and want to be your friend. Try to understand us. Listen and consider our difference and be sympathetic of them. And if you already are, I thank you.

And I don't want this to taint or downgrade the MANY wonderful things about Japan and its people. They are still one of the kindest nations I have ever had the pleasure of meeting and they can still surprise me with their level of consideration and kindness in so many ways.

This is all also only my personal view point, but I also welcome any and everyones comments and/or views on this topic.

Saturday, 23 February 2013

I'm Big In Japan!

Japanese Sweet Treats

I decided the other day that I would only have so much time left in Japan, so I needed to try all the weird sweets while I could. I got my self some of the premium selections, including green tea shortbread biscuits, chocolate with real orange bits in it, chocolate in a biscuit coating and 'soda' flavoured bubble-gum. Not forgetting my favourite Dars, it has such a melty inside!

How Much for a Grape?!?

Something that surprised me about Japan is the price of fruit. Back home, I know Britain isn't the best climate to grow fruit, but somehow we get by. Our climate is obviously good for apples and pears and these can be bought extremely cheaply. But even friuit from abroad is inexpensive. But in Japan, fruit is like a gift; and I'm not being metaphorical, people actually give them as gifts. I saw in Okayama airport as we went to Okinawa small boxes of grapes, 2 for 5500 yen. Thats about £48. Thats £24 for a small box of grapes!!! Seriously. The grapes they also have are more like the times used for making wine. I actually prefer these, as the flavour is stronger, although the skin is tough and most people peel their grapes (You have to have a lot of patience to peal a bowl of grapes).


I thought that being in Okayama, a place famous for grapes and peaches, I would be swimming in an excess of fruit, but two large peaches will easily set you back a good 600 yen (About £5) and the cheapest I've found a small bunch of grapes was about the same, and that was direct from the farm. I don't understand how Japan has the climate for fruit, but is pricey? Japanese people do demand that there should be no inperfections in the fruit and the price increases with the size of the fruit. I've seen apples the size of my head, but to be honest, they just taste water! Japanese people don't seem to get that the smaller they are, the more concentrated the flavour is.

But of course Maki's parents have made their living from the sale of their mangos, which can fetch a pretty penny. But the amount of love and care that has to get into them is extensive, considering that any discolouring, scratches of blemishes with affect the price. It is a real labour of love. And at least here, the taste is devine.  

Company Policy


While certain things in Japan work much better than the UK; trains arrive on time, theft doesn't really exist and people are polite; as I have learnt, there is always a payoff.

I have mentioned the phrase “The nail that sticks out, gets hammered down” before about Japan, and for me, it symbolises a lot about Japanese people. No one wants to be the one to question something, where as in Britain it's a common past-time. This has an odd effect on business and rights. People work late, because they are told to with few holidays and little pay. The average worker doesn't really have much rights and whether as in the UK we might set out to sue for such illegal infringements, the Japanese seem to roll over and accept their fate.

My personal 'beef' is with 'Softbank', a mobile phone and internet provider here in Japan. As you also might remember, obtaining a mobile in Japan was one of the single most stressful and frustrating moments in my life. They seemingly add extra costs for no reason and the process is about as transparent as lead. Well, one of those costs that I pay, every month, is for insurance on my phone. A little while ago I dropped my precious little iPhone and the back panel shattered (Apple, seriously, glass?). I thought I should get it repaired as I know from my contract it says that they will repair and pay for 80% of the cost of repair. Once in the store we found this was not the case. They will repair it, but I need to pay for it all up front, around 13,000 yen (Over £100). But I am told I will get it back. Back from deductions of excess that I spend on phones per month. What? What have I been paying insurance for? I consulted the English contract I had signed and it said nothing about this. They said “Oh, you have to see the Japanese contract.” I said “I didn't sign a Japanese contract, I signed this one.” and it went back and forth like this for a while. They then said its in the brochure as well. I took out my brochure which I was give and the time and said “Show me where?!” The brochure was in Japanese and English and both said NOTHING about this method of payment and only mentioned that they pay 80% of the cost. Because we started to make a very valid point, they then took the single stubborn tact of “Its company policy.” What, it's 'Company Policy' to con me and change a contract I have signed without my consent? They would not move and it seemed there was nothing I could do. Not manager to talk to, nothing. I was shocked.

The second sting in the tail is that although I've paid for this iPhone outright, in full to begin with, I still have to pay about 10,000 yen to cancel the contract and they lock the phone, which is mine, to only their network, so I can't use it with other service providers. When I asked why, they said “Its company policy.”

Softbank is starting up in the USA soon, I wonder what they will think of their 'Company Policy'?

Kyushoku Lunch time Dairies

Got a chou-cream cake for dessert for lunch today. Amazing. Plus there were loads of student off school with the flu (10 out of a class of 30), so more left over for the big gaijin!

Monday, 18 February 2013

Hadaka Matsuri (Or Naked Man Festival) - 裸祭り

I've done some pretty crazy things in my life. I've eaten snake. I've jumped in a hole in an icy lake. I've stroked a full grown wild tiger. But my recent escapade goes right up there with the others, if not eclipses them. I took part in the most insane festival possible to imagine. I took part in the Hadaka Matsuri 裸祭り!

Imagine this: 9,000 semi-naked men running through the streets, on a bitterly cold February night, wearing nothing but a small Japanese style loin cloth (A Fundoshi フンドシ) and traditional socks (Tabi 足袋) and your still not even close to the full madness. All these men are then paraded around the streets chanting themselves into a frenzy while people throw freezing cold water on them.


They are then funnelled into a small alley where police stand firm and female onlookers are whipping up a frenzy of their own, until you reach the grounds of Saidaiji temple (西大寺). Here they are 'cleansed' with a pool of freezing water, just over waist high (Not forgetting your only wearing a loin cloth and a pair of socks on a cold night, outside). The parade then takes you around the temple its self where more onlookers cheer and high-five you. You are blessed for good luck and then you enter 'the arena!' Here, you must wait, patiently, naked, wet, in the cold, for... ...wait for it.... ...sticks.


The aim of the game is to complete with the 9,000 other naked men for one of two stick filled with incense, trying not to be; beaten, full down the steps to the temple, crushed, wrestled to the ground or trodden on, in the process. If you are lucky enough to survive this gauntlet with sticks in hand, you will achieve hero like status, as well as being blessed for a year and a substantial cash price!

This is what I did. Not the hero like status, blessed, cash rich part; the attempting part to become the former. Loin clothed, wet and cold in the streets of Japan, wrestling with others for a glimpse of stick. It was nothing short of total insanity and carnage. I have on occasion defend the 'Japanese people are crazy' stereotype, but after this I don't have a leg to stand on.

There were countdowns to the dropping of the sticks and once it reached a minute before, the tension and atmosphere was electric. Just before the sticks were dropped, the lights went out, something of which I had no idea.

Managing to survive the cold and I made my way up the steps to the temple, where pushing serge which caused men to topple down the stairs head-over-heals, one on top of another like human dominos. Having made it to the top of the stairs I narrowly avoided such doom on more than one occasion, hit the deck to prevent a slinky affect and digging my feet in while grab hold of the nearest free Japanese mans limb, seemed to fair me well. Once I squeezed my way in to the human bait ball, the all new danger of being crushed to death became all too realistic. With men more tightly compacted than a Tokyo commuter train, it was hard to breath and I was even unable to move an arm it was so densely packed. I couldn't and I'm not sure I would have even wanted to make it close to the epicentre of the riot, where I presume the sticks were, but I'm told warmth from the shared body heat is so intense it is like the hottest sauna.


This battle lasted for over an hour, with the sticks moved and fought over in big huddles until they reached their final destination and the event was over. Naked man roamed the streets and disappeared into the night, as did I; confused, shocked, cold and tired. If someone asks me “Are Japanese people really that crazy?” again, I will refer them to the Hadaka Matsuri.