Wednesday 23 May 2012

A Close Shave


I had my first hair cut in Japan yesterday. I don't know why, but I'm always a bit anxious about going to the barbers, especially new ones. Lucky, Maki was on hand to translate and requests like “No not that short!” or “You've cut my ear off!” There is this quaint little local barbers new my home with the stereotypical spinning white, red and blue poles out front. The barber is an old-man, who looks like he's been working there since he could pick up a pair of scissors.

Speaking as someone who's had his hair cut in various countries/nationalities, I can say there is always something wholly unique about each. My Finnish hair dresser had never seen hair as thick as mine and was rather perplexed about how to thin it down. A Turkish barber I went to see, after cutting my hair, placed a rolled up cotton-ball on the end of a piece of wire, dipped it in some liquid, set fire to it and began flicking it near my ear! I now know of course he was burning away and excess ear hair (Which I don't have), but at the time all I saw was a man playing with fire way to close to my head. Italian barbers think their all salon hair dressers and have this expression on their faces like they are creating art. But, I digress.

The Japanese hair cut was pretty standard at the beginning; chair, normal; hair wash, normal; hair cutting with scissors, normal. However, then he took what I can only describe as a giant make-up brush covered in talcon powder and smeared it round the sides and back of my head! My first thought was he was so used to cutting old peoples hair that he was trying to create a distinguished look of an older gentleman who hasn't discovered 'Just for Men', though I assumed it helped him to see the hair lengths better. He was very insistent he shaves my ear hair, and we are not talking old-man in the ears but the ears themselves! Last time I looked I wasn't a hobbit, but I feel it would have offended him if I didn't let him. The line was drawn when he want to shave my forehead though! I don't know about you but I've never looked at a man (Or women) and thought “They really need to get their forehead shaved.” Maybe its a Japanese thing? Finally, when it came to cleaning up, he used a garden broom with no handle to bush off the trimmed hair off the gown, as you do. The hair was good though and I was very happy, until it came to pay and I was slapped with a bill of about 3,500 yen (Thats about £28); more like a salon price than a mens barbers. So what could I do, but pay the man, go home and check my forehead for straggling hairs.

The Evening Class


The local Board of Education (BoE) had asked me to do an English evening class for the locals in the area. I was a little reluctant at first as I still don't really know what I doing and I think that adults will see through my thin facade quicker than a 7 year old would. My concerns melted when I was told I will be paid the princely sum of 10,000 yen (About £80) for 1 and a half hours work. My first lesson was a bit messy, I didn't have much time to practice and I didn't really know what the ability was of my potential students, who, as it turns out, have an average age of over 50 and a somewhat mixed level of English. 

The second lesson was actually great fun, partly in fact that I was more organised and partly that I took Maki with me. It made it so much easier having someone to demonstrate with and it turns out we make quite a team. More than that, we made quite a double comedy act, educating and entertaining at the same time. I can't wait 'til next time now. I still feel like I don't really know what I'm doing though.  

We're watching you!


Do you ever get that feeling you're being watched? I do. All the time. Leaving in village is one thing, I know having liked in Fosdyke, population 200 ('ish), people know each other and gossip and what to know everyone else's business. It's another thing when you're the tall white guy with a ginger beard in a small Japanese town. Everyone notices me and reports my location's and actions to others.

After visiting the farmers market the other week, on the way back home, me and Maki stop in at the local Marui supermarket to pick up some sundries and such. A man who I'm fairly sure I haven't met came up to me and started to talking to me. He was telling me how he had seen me and my wife at the Farmers Market, earlier that day. This was a nice man, nothing odd about him, but I don't know what do say to this! “Oh, that's nice that you saw me Mr. Stranger. Thanks for letting me know.” I don't know how to react to these reports. I met the mothers of some of my students yesterday and they informed me where they had seen me walking in Shoo. The thing is when I go walking I barely see anyone. Many they all have CCTV and watch everyone. Maybe I do just stick out too much like the proverbially bearded saw thumb I am.

I expect it from the children and I get that a lot, which is kinda nice. I see them in the supermarket when they clock me. They seem so surprised to see me shopping like such a strange looking person shouldn't need food. They react differently, some whisper to their mothers “Mr Buckley, John Buckley, Buckley-Sensei”. Some yell it “JOHN-SENSEI” and come bounding over. Some want to practice their English “Hello!” “How are you?” “I'm fine” etc etc. It's a bit like being a child super-star, like 'Barney the Dinosaur'. I actually had some children ask for my signature the other day. I really didn't understand, but if it makes them happy.

My favourite has to be the toddlers. They are so funny. It's like they've had never seen an English man before (And sometimes, haven't). Some stare, frozen to the spot where they saw me. Others stare, but go onto autopilot, continuing walking but staring at me. This is funny as they bump into things because they are so distracted. One walked into his mothers leg and landed on this his bum, with such the cutest expression of shock from the Gaijin/mother's-leg combo. And then there are the shy ones. The ones that hide behind their mother's legs and run the other way.

The high school teenage's really stare. They don't have me as their teacher there, so I'm somewhat of a novelty to them. They hang around the station and when I walk by I can hear them talking about me. Maki doesn't like it, but that's because the girls talk about me the most :D

Ones things for sure, I have to be careful what I do in public.  

Sunday 13 May 2012

Shoo North Village Farmers Market


This is less like what I know as a Farmers Market and more like a park, meets tourist action, meets children's playground, meets petting zoo.   It's a beautifully landscaped park and right on my door step. 


We got to sample some local beef straight of the carcass and also meet a cow who was swept away 10 years ago during a very serious typhoon. The farm was flooded and all but one cow drowned. This one cow swam his little heart out down the rivers and was found later on a small island about 80km south of where he had started. Amazing. I feel bad for eating the other cow now. Actually, not I don't. It was very tasty.


蒜山 - Hiruzen

This is a really beautiful area. Coming from a place in England that is flat as a pan-cake, I've always loved mountains and hills. It adds interest to the scenery and Okayama in general has this in spades.

We left early and drove up using the highway for the first time as you have to pay to use this, but it saved us a load of time and during Golden Week, places get pretty busy.
  


Hiruzen has some amazing view spots and is famous for having Jersey cows. Those who know me well, will know I love my milk and the milk here is amazing.  I know an ALT who works in Hiruzen and she gets the local milk as part of her local school lunch. Lucky.


We also tried some local Udon (I didn't know at the time but Hiruzen is actually famous for its Soba noodles) and those Udon aficionados and Japanese among you might be surprise to know that they serve Udon with cheese on top, made from the local Jersey cow's milk. It was nice and similar to Italian Carbonara, but there was way too much and it soon felt like a chore.



Golden Week


Golden Week in Japan is a national holiday, that doesn't actually run a week. It's a week where you have 2-3 national holiday days. I would have like to plan something special, but I've been so busy we had to just plan as we went along. But I've had a really good time as it gave me time to spend with Maki. Japanese people get very excited about Golden Week as they don't really get much time off, although some use it to finish jobs they wouldn't normally have time to do.

We got a change to drive up to Hiruzen, an area of 3 large mountains with some great views; as well as visit the local farmers market here in Shoo and take a trip to Yubara onsen and a very pretty waterfall with some Interac ALTs I've met locally. More posts to come on those soon.

For All You Japanese Food Lovers

Here is cheese, sandwiched between a layer of cheese. Cheesy.


A processed seafood block with an image running all the way through it. Think crab stick meets British seaside rock candy.