Well,
its almost time to go and I am currently living in a cardboard box fortress. I
feel so many mixed things about Japan. There is so much I love and
so much I don't love so much, its hard to decipher some kind of
collusion from all of this. On the whole, I have loved living in
Japan and I don't for one second regret coming here. It has been an
experience of a lifetime and a daily roller-coaster ride of
randomness, pleasure, excitement and side of confusion. Japan has
tested me, but I like to think I leave a wiser man than when I
arrived. A year is short, but it seemed to fit with the work back
home and another year would have gone one of two ways; I would have
either loved it so much I'd never come back to England or it would
have drove me insane and made me bitter about this island nation.
Thursday, 28 March 2013
Too Close to See the Wood for the Bamboo
I
can't help feeling once I leave I will appreciate this experience
much more. I have lived here for so long, sometimes its hard to
think about my life in England. It's going to seem like a reverse
culture shock coming back and maybe I'll miss a lot of things I took
for granted in Japan. But, if travelling as much as I have has
taught me anything, its that no place is perfect and there is no
place like home.
Good Goodbyes
I
should mention and reiterate after my rant at Japanese culture the
other week that there are some amazing things about Japan and
Japanese people. I've had some very fond goodbyes from teachers,
students and friends in the last few days. I have been given
presents, flowers and dinner. On leaving my each of my three schools
for the last days I received a round of applause from all the
teachers. But most impressively, I have received HUNDREDS of goodbye
notes and letters from my students. The general consensus is that
they have enjoyed my lessons and that I made learning English fun and
easy. It is one thing to get complements from the teachers but when
its from the students I feel I have something truly to be proud of.
I must have high-fived 95% of the students in one school goodbye as
they all left on the last day. I know I've only been here a year,
but hopefully I have made an impact on some peoples lives.
I,
however, am crap at goodbyes. Especially when I might not see that
person again. I have not idea how to end it. So here is a picture
of me and some teachers:
Mask Culture
Japanese
people love their surgical masks and you see them wearing them all
the time. I cant but help find it a little antisocial and intrusive.
I understand if someone is concerned about their health, but I know
some people who wear theirs all the time. I see people wearing them
in their cars driving home. It doesn't seem to be just about
preventing colds or population, but also a metaphorical mask.
Japanese people can sometimes be very shy and I guess hiding behind a
'mask' gives them a little security. Although, maybe Im wrong and
they just paranoid about germs.
Super-Fugu
On a
recent visit to the supermarket to purchase on some selection of
sashimi, I noticed one that I hadn't tried before. It was Fugu! For
those of you not in the know, Fugu is a very dangerous fish, most of
which is lethally poisonous, so the sushi chef has to be very skilled
to extract the right bit. Its not something I wanted to try as it's
not too nice from what I've heard, just never expected to see it in
the supermarket!
Cycling in Japan
Japan
is full of cyclist and it quite a casual mode of transport. The
school kids all cycle to school come rain, shine or blizzard
(Literally) and some of the High School girls wear too shorter shirts
to be cycling on such a windy day! I've nearly had a few collision
driving to work because of this. But cyclists in Japan on the whole
seem very lax about the idea of safety. Japan as a whole, although
bureaucratic hasn't been taken over by the 'Health and Safety Police'
yet, unlike in Britain where I recently heard that triangular
biscuits in one school have been banned due to their eye-poking
corners (True story). But the way Japanese cyclist float from side
to side of the road makes me cringe a little, let alone their lack of
helmets and even lights at night. As someone who has been hit by a
car on my bike I feel the need to express how fearful I am for
Japanese people meandering across the tarmac into the path of my
vehicle.
Japanese
people, please cycle safe!
Wednesday, 27 March 2013
The Saddest Goodbye
It
almost makes me feel bad as I feel I should be saying that I will
miss the kids the most or even the teachers or friends I've made
along the way. But truthfully, it is actually the basketball club I
will miss the most!
Basketball
used to be a huge part of my life when I was young and I had to stop
playing as I kept dislocating my shoulder, something I still struggle
with. However, since I have been playing here I haven't had any
issues so far. It felt so good to get back to playing. But its more
than that. I was the sense of normality, like I knew what was going
on and where it didn't matter if I couldn't speak Japanese, just that
I could speak 'basketball'. It didn't matter about culture, or
kanji, or etiquette; just doing what I used to do best. It was my
haven from the random, confusing world of Japan.
The
group had welcomed me into their hearts too and actively made me fit
in. They were pleased to see me and valued me as a friend. They
interacted with me on more of a personal level that anyone else I met
in Japan and I even got a nick name from them, 'Broccoli' (One girl
couldn't say Buckley and it just sounded like broccoli, it stuck).
The
last training session was amazing and so much fun. But at the end it
was the saddest goodbye. I cried as I gave my farewell speech. I
will miss them all.
All-You-Can-Eat Strawberries, Slides and BBQ's
For
those friends with children who couldn't attend the evening drinks I
want to do something family friendly. So we went to eat some
strawberries at the local farmers market. To my surprise they have
an 'all-you-can-eat' strawberry session. You have 50 minutes to
pound down as many of the little red fruits you can get your hands
on. Its also surprising how quickly you reach your strawberry limit
and it flips from a fruit-feast to an epic-endurance contest.
We
also took time out in the park to play on the slides and have an
amazing Barbecue. It was a great day, spring has truly sprung and a
great way to say goodbye to some good friends.
Messages
I
received a lot of written message from the students at one of my
schools last Friday. It was incredible to have such thoughtful
comments from my students and they all seemed to say the same thing;
that I made English easy to understand and made it fun to learn.
Coming from the teachers this would be one thing, but from the
students this is a real seal of approval for me. Although this year
has been short and I can only do so much, this makes it all worth
wild.
Leaving Speeches
With
three schools, 28 classes and countless teacher and students, I have
a lot of goodbyes to say. My first leaving speech was on Monday to
my Junior High School. I was really nervous about it as I'd be doing
it in Japanese in front of a lot of people. I had a speech for my
teachers, but it was more the one in front of the whole school that
concerned me. But, once I had poorly navigated the various
procedures of bowing, sitting, standing and where to move to, the
speech seemed to flow well; even though I had about 400 faces fully
focused on me. As a surprise, one of the students gave a speech in
English to me, thanking me for my time here and how he had enjoyed my
easy to understand lessons and interesting twists on the lessons. He
was amazing! And I found out later he wrote it on his own over the
weekend! I was also presented with a bouquet of flowers by one of
the girls I worked on the speech contest with. I then had to walk
through the centre of the students to a round of applause. It was
such a bizarre feeling as I won't leave just yet and I find it hard
to accept I will be leaving as these things don't normally sink in
until they happen.
How to Talk to Foreigners
Two weeks ago I had been very frustrated with Japan. But I think this must be one of
the most profound things I have learnt about Japan and while it's
always been kind of obvious, the larger picture I now see makes other
things make sense to me now too. It sounds simple but “most
Japanese people have no idea how to talk to foreigners.” I'm aware
this is a sweeping stereotype and any Japanese person reading this is
most likely a culturally sensitive individual who has taken time to
understand not only English, but English/American culture. You see,
while they are an exceptionally kind nation, most Japanese people
don't have cultural sensitivity, for which there are many reasons:
They
are an island nation and historically have cut off from the outside
world for a long time. This also meant there willingness to
'integrate' with foreigners was almost cultural. This is slowly
changing but will take more time. This compared to Britain's
centuries of colonisation and trade gives us a massive head start in
global and cultural interaction.
There
are so few foreigners in Japan, less than 1% and I think even less
where I'm living. Compared to Britain's generations of foreign
immigrates and a population that is so diverse, we are more used to
seeing, interacting, living with and being understanding to,
foreigners of various colours, cultures and nationalities. But here
I am constantly viewed as a novelty; strange and truly alien to
everyone. Stared at in the streets and treated in a shifting scale
between celebrity and circus freak. This leads to great excitement
at first, but soon leads to great frustration as I just wanted to be
treated normally. Some people are truly afraid of me, or in some
case they think I'll be afraid of them; which is also why I find it
hard to make new Japanese friends and practice my Japanese. Maki
spoke to our neighbour recently about that we will soon be leaving,
but reassured her that my American friend will be coming to live
there and he is a great person. Her response was “What do I do?
How do I talk to him? Can I talk to him? Won't I scare him?”
Japanese people don't seem to understand we want to know them and
talk to them. We just need some help with the language but at least
give us the chance to try!
Race
is a delicate subject, and it kills me to say it, but some Japanese
people can be quite racist. It's not meant to be hurtful, they just
don't know better. Whether its their stereotypes on colour or their
viewpoint and forces hierarchic on certain other asian nations
people. Once, in a class, I presented a flash card of a cartoon of a
black girl running. The students choral response was “Monkey!”
I was shocked. I know they were young, but not that young. I froze
for a moment, unable to know what to do with this situation. I knew
enough about Japan to know my explaining of this error would not be
understood, but my moral compass felt unable to not correct this most
grave of insults.
Japanese
people sometimes struggle to talk to Japanese people, let along
foreigners. The social construct of Japan doesn't lend to a relaxed
atmosphere for freedom to converse as some might want. They tend not
to live in shared houses and prefer to live with parents, alone or
with a partner. As I've experienced, even if I am part of a group,
like my teaching staff or sports club, trying to isolate someone out
of that group to meet for a drink/meal for some personal interaction
is almost impossible.
But
mostly surprisingly to me, Japanese culture is constructed in such
away to makes most Japanese people inherently culturally ignorant.
Its not with malice but their inability to discuss or debate, and
their extreme cultural differences that make them unable to
understand me. There is a great willingness to help and welcome me,
but when it comes to listening to my view points and thoughts on
life, right and wrong and all things that make my culture; Japanese
people seem to closed to hear or listen. They don't debate
differences and see any difference as a conflict. “The nail that
sticks out gets hammered down” comes into play here again, as they
must conform to a Japanese way of thinking on all topics. Freedom of
creativity can make you a social outcast. As a foreigner, I may not
be always expected to understand or conform in the same way, but
sometimes I must. And the problem is, if there is a conflict of
interests, its impossible to explain why or even attempt to resolve a
situation as they don't know how to discuss or debate.
The
other day at a basketball tournament, I was playing against a very
good team, but the player I was marking held my arm preventing me
from moving. As we ran back I tried in my best Japanese to explain
that this was a foul and not good. He laughed. What I didn't know
at the time is that Japanese people laugh and smile when they feel
uncomfortable. I took his laughter to be extremely insulting. So
tried to correct him that this wasn't a laughing matter which
escalated the situation. My team mates told me that I was in the
wrong for being 'aggressive', not seeing the previous altercation and
my reasoning. The problem is not that I didn't know, but I was
unable to educate anyone that I had realised this was a simple
misunderstanding. With most other cultures, you can explain your
point of view and where the confusion was, or have even found out it
was a misunderstanding early with a simple conversation. But their
lack of ability to discuss and debate meant I was unable to get them
to understand this was a misunderstanding. In fact, just bringing up
the subject again made the situation worse. Japanese people prefer
to ignore and pretend it didn't happen.
As a
nation that needed to be good at working in groups to survive from
when they used to be a farming nation, the success of the crop
depended on their working as a team and forgetting any problems.
This may be good for certain things, but not for resolving issues
like the above. When someone in Japan is crying, they are taught to
leave them alone. This is shocking for me as I want to help them.
As a nation taught to ignore problems and not talk about feelings or
issues, its no wonder it has the highest suicide rate in the world.
It is
this lack of a desire to understand ME and MY culture that has in the
last week caused me to become very frustrated with Japan. For the
last year I have made as much effort as I can to integrate, learn the
culture and the language and be as culturally sensitive as I can.
But this appears to be a one way street with little or no give and
take. And because of the culture, I can't even talk to them about my
frustrations. I feel a lot of tension from certain people about
leaving after one year, something of which a Japanese person wouldn't
do, purely because its just not 'teamwork' and most people stay in
the same jobs all their lives. Their inability to understand my
reasoning for leaving leaves a bitter taste that I didn't want and I
feel helpless to be able to reason or explain my thoughts, feelings,
reasons or culture.
I
would like to reiterate, those Japanese people who have made an
effort to understand or been lucky enough to travel or live abroad
are like calk and cheese compared to other Japanese people. The
Japanese people I know from London are not only extremely culturally
sensitive, but also have the best bits of being Japanese as well
(Thoughtful, kind etc etc). Its like a cultural switch has been
turned on and eyes have been opened.
But to
any Japanese person who has stubbled across this blog, please, I
implore you, tell your fellow country men and women, we are not that
scary! We come in peace and want to be your friend. Try to
understand us. Listen and consider our difference and be sympathetic
of them. And if you already are, I thank you.
And I
don't want this to taint or downgrade the MANY wonderful things about
Japan and its people. They are still one of the kindest nations I
have ever had the pleasure of meeting and they can still surprise me
with their level of consideration and kindness in so many ways.
This
is all also only my personal view point, but I also welcome any and
everyones comments and/or views on this topic.
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