Strange Behaviour

In England we know when to say good morning, good afternoon, good evening and good night, but for a while I've had the feeling that the Japanese people are playing a trick on me. I have quickly understand that Ohayogozaimasu (Good morning) is only said very early on, not until 12 as back home. But the line between Konnichiwa (Good day) and Konbanwa (Good evening) was throwing me into a world of confusion. I understand back home the line is blurred, but if someone says “good evening” it would be just plain rude to reply with “Good afternoon”, as you many have well said “Actually, I think you'll find its still in the afternoon you simpleton!” But for a while now, just when I think I have it figured out someone replies with the opposite. Finally I came to the conclusion that it must be just when the sun sets that it becomes evening, with a grey area around dusk. However, last night while walking to my Eikaiwa (Private English) class, in the pitch black, I met a man coming the other way. I said confidently “Konbanwa” to which he replied “Konnichiwa.” It appears the locals are just messing with me.

My second story of oddity comes from one of my schools. I had a lesson today and to pass the time while the teacher gives some Japanese explanation, instead of standing there like a pleb, I walk up and down the rows, checking the spelling, punctuation and slacking students. I had noticed something strange about one student. As I come up her row she gave me an evil look, and scooted her table over to one side, sighing, huffing and puffing. I hadn't asked her too, nor was there not enough room for me. I winded my way through the class and on my return made my way down the other side of her row, to which the response was further huffing and sighing and the slight moving of her table in the other direction. This also provoked some chuntering under her breath. I thought, it probably nothing, but for the purpose of science, I would test this further throughout the lesson. Each time, she would shunt her desk away from me and the further violations of her oversized personal space also invoked the closing or covering of her book so I couldn't see to correct or approve her workings. Have I given her this complex? Did I ask her once to move her desk over as it was blocking my access and now she feels every time I pass she need to give me a wide birth? I can't remember issuing such a demand. I decided to try and bridge the void, but how? At that point her friend tried to pass her a note, her eyes caught mine, 'busted'. So I smiled, nodded to show my approval that I am the cool kind of teacher that lets that kind of thing slide; to which her reply was a scowl so harsh I genuinely believe she was trying to burn a hole in my head with her eyes. “Teenagers!” I thought, as I circled back down her row to make her scoot over again.

Cycling Onomichi to Imabari

A friend had heard about a cycle route in Hiroshima that runs 76km over 7 islands with amazing views. I've never cycled that far before, but it sounded like a good challenge; so we decided to take it on.

There were six of us in totally, we hired our bikes and set off; untrained and unfit. The weather was in our favour, sunny but with a cooling breeze. It really was a beautiful. The paths were made for cyclists and smooth to ride on. The bridges that spanned the islands were massive and each unique. We planned to make a night stop in Ikuchi island, only 27km into our journey as we had used most of the day to drive to the start from our respective homes. By the time we reached the mishuku (cheap style B&B) our rears were saddle sore and our legs like jelly. We made it to a small beach and soothed our aching bones in the salty water, after which we ate, drank and slept like babies.

Even the next day, I'm not sure any of us had full confidence we would be able to make the remaining distance, especially as we winced in pain climbing into our seats to set off. But our determination out-weighed the pain and we soon clocked up the kilometres. We sang and kept going, only stopping to grab a drink or take a quick snap-shot. The last bridge seemed to stretch on for ever and the following 6km felt like 20km, but finally reach the final destination. 49km in one day. It didn't hurt as much as it was tiring but I think we all felt good having achieved such a challenge. The reward, a well deserved bowl of steaming Onomichi Ramen (Chinese style noodles in soup with pork belly).

Japanese Playgrounds Have the Best Slides

My friend, Thijs and me going down a long roller style slide at the local farmers market as Thijs goes backwards. It's longer than it looks.

  

Random English of the Month – Bad English

This month, it's more bad English rather than random English. Granted there is a similarity between the English R and L in Japanese, with the らりるれろ sounding like a mix between the two letter, but there is still a big difference between a fork band and folk band.

Also, if you are going to manufacture a notebook especially for learning English words, surely you'd get someone just to double check the grammar before putting them into mass production! Apparently its convenient for learning AN English word, but just one mind.

Personal Space

I have always had the impression that Japanese people had the largest 'personal space' in the World. This still might be true, as I think if I tried standing close to a stranger, it might make them feel very uncomfortable. However, I never realised how 'tactile' Japanese people can be. My students are especially touchy and equally violent in a playful'ish way. But they are only affectionate in this way with students of the same sex! If they have to touch someone of the opposite sex, as in the dances I've seen for the annual sports day, they looks positively disgusted with having to interact with someone not of their gender. If such same gender touching went on in a British playground, it wouldn't be long before the childish name calling of “oh your so gay” would be batted around. Not so in Japan. Maybe this is because (And as always, this is only my single observers option) that to be gay here is almost a myth. It does feel like homosexuality is shunned in Japan and maybe in the city the gay community have their place; however, here in the hilly farmland of Okayama, its seemly not only non-existant, but doesn't even seem a reality. Another ALT I know here was talking to a Japanese person about their gay friend and the Japanese person understood them to mean 'camp'. When they were corrected, they told me the Japanese person looked positively shocked and a little in denial that someone could actually be gay.

Two male junior high school students came up to me for a chat before the class with their arms around each other, one announcing that the other boy was, in English, “...my boy friend.” I like to think of myself as a liberal minded individual, but I believed they were mistaken. I clarified in Japanese at which point their happy faces dropped, pushed each other away and said “No, no, no, no!” It's good that children of this age can be affectionate, but it's really sad that homosexuality isn't as accepted.

Adding to the physical interaction seems to be the Japanese mind set on comedy, or at least what is considered funny. The Japanese sense of humour seems to appeal to the lowest common denominator, slapstick; or as it's similar referred to as, Manzai. For me I miss the eloquent wit of British comics like Steven Fry and the rest of the QI bunch, where a punt is something one must earn through intellect. Or the story telling observational comics like Rhod Gilbert or Eddie Izzard. Or even the randomness of the classics like Monty Pythons Flying Circus. But no, in Japan, what gets a laugh is hitting a man around the head in a silly way, “... sigh”. And so this is what the kids find funny and there is a lot of slapping and wrestling which at first is actually quite shocking. Even with the teachers the students are very physical. I've seen students push teachers like its nothing, and the teachers look of the same option.